Ubuyu (Echeveria) Sowing Time
If you want to learn about the knowledge of the succulent plant Ubuyu, including the sowing time of Ubuyu, the following article will introduce it to everyone.
There is no strict definition for the sowing time of Ubuyu, because as long as the temperature is suitable, it can be sown. Of course, the subsequent seedling care should also be considered. Generally speaking, the sowing time of Ubuyu is usually between April and June, and it can germinate smoothly as long as the temperature can reach about 30°C.
Often, when gardeners sow, they need more experience with the entire sowing process. To facilitate the sowing of Ubuyu, this article quotes the sowing experience of a gardener (liquidsilk) for reference:
I. Soil Preparation
Moss, rice husk charcoal, vermiculite, and a small amount of 1-3mm akadama soil particles, the ratio is not strictly controlled. If it has to be mentioned, it is 1:1:1:1. Rice husk charcoal can inhibit the growth of bacteria, which has been proven effective by personal testing, significantly reducing the probability of mycelium appearance; vermiculite is mainly for water retention.
II. Environment
Temperature: Based on personal experience, the highest temperature of about 30 degrees is the best germination rate (almost 100%, and the survival rate is also high in the later stage). The highest temperature of about 35 degrees has a slightly lower germination rate but still above 90%, varying with different seed sources.
Humidity: Definitely full enclosure, I don't ventilate at night, and if there is too much condensation on the lid, I shake it off and put it back on.
Lighting: South-facing enclosed balcony, about 2 hours of sunlight in the morning, and scattered light for the rest of the time.
Sowing is best done on consecutive sunny days, a day or two of rain is fine, but it's better not to choose continuous rainy days, as it will affect the germination rate and can easily cause bacterial growth.
III. Seedling Tray
This is a key point to note, choosing a good seedling tray is crucial for germination rate and later maintenance. The primary consideration is airtightness, which can prevent bacteria from entering the air, retain moisture, and prevent small insects from entering. I use a blue, thick material seedling tray that is 380mm long, with a non-standard tray (single cell height 6CM, width 4.5*4.5CM), and the lid that comes with it is also made of thick plastic. I found this box at my wife's workplace, and I was very satisfied with it at the time. Their unit does foreign trade, and it was a previous sample that I took home. Later, I found the same model on a shopping platform, which is much better than any other seedling tray on the market. However, when using this seedling tray, note that there will be a small gap when the lid is closed, and use 1-4 clips to secure it as needed (the commonly used office clips with two stainless steel claws), which can also prevent small pets from tipping it over, such as our cat. Since he last crushed a pot of leaf-cutting seedlings, he now wants to lie on flat soil.
IV. Preparations Before Sowing
The soil is prepared, the temperature and climate are suitable, and all tools are ready, and it's time to start preparing. Place some 3-6mm particles at the bottom of the seedling tray, usually using pumice stone. Some gardeners use diatomaceous earth, which I do not recommend because although it does not powder like akadama soil, it easily cakes, especially in high humidity conditions. Then fill the soil, flatten it, and soak the pot in a potassium permanganate solution for more than 30 minutes, with a deep purple concentration enough. Whether to soak the seeds seems to make no difference to the germination rate. I've soaked some for two hours and they germinated normally, and those not soaked also did; however, if the seeds are of poor quality or old, it might be worthwhile to soak them. Don't worry about potassium permanganate burning the seeds.
V. Sowing
About the sowing density, I have sown between 20-50 seeds in a 4.5*4.5CM grid, which has no effect on the germination rate, but later on, the more seeds sown may be more crowded. I use toothpicks to sow, dip them in the remaining potassium permanganate solution, and dot-sow. The seeds are large and easy to handle, much simpler than sowing臀部, and they stick to the soil when they fall on it.
VI. Post-Maintenance
In the first few days after sowing, it's definitely fully sealed, no need to open the lid or ventilate, but observe daily, and deal with any mycelium immediately with fungicides or other antibacterial agents. This must be done at the first sign, or the consequences can be serious. When the seeds start to germinate, you can open it to ventilate according to the situation. I usually look at the condensation on the lid, and if it's too much, I shake it off and then continue to cover it.
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