Twelve-volume propagation method — Leaf insertion
A detailed introduction is about the knowledge of flower propagation in relation to Twelve-volume, the propagation method of Twelve-volume — Leaf insertion. Next, the editor of this site will introduce it to everyone.
Regarding the propagation of Twelve-volume, in fact, many friends have propagated it during the cultivation process because its propagation is relatively simple. The commonly used methods are leaf insertion, division, and sowing. This article mainly introduces the leaf insertion for propagating Twelve-volume.
I. Selecting Leaves
Healthy leaves are fine, either leaves plucked after cutting the top or the old leaves from the outer circle of the plant. Leaves plucked after cutting the top are preferable because young leaves are more likely to succeed in propagation than aging leaves. Moreover, young leaves can be propagated multiple times. That is, after removing the seedlings from the leaf insertion, the leaves can sprout again, sometimes up to 4 or 5 times, each time at least one seedling. For aging leaves, the probability of failure is quite high during propagation, and even if successful, they can usually only sprout once. After removing the leaves, they need to be processed, dried, and sterilized. Applying sterilizing powder is not necessary; it can be omitted if not available, but the drying process is essential.
This process usually takes about two weeks. It's better to extend the time than to shorten it because this process is not just about drying the wound but also allowing the plant's own healing tissue to fully function, creating a scar on the wound that can resist microbes. Only after this treatment can the leaves be inserted safely. Friends say that in Japan, many hobbyists wrap the leaves in sterile soft paper after removing them and put them in a drawer for a month before inserting them (this method has not been tried, but it's worth a try)! The leaves should be removed intact, that is, cut close to the stem (this is what many masters say about needing some stem tissue). Of course, it doesn't mean that no roots or seedlings will grow without stem tissue. I have personally succeeded in leaf insertion in some cases, but the probability is indeed low.
II. Choosing Leaf Insertion Substrate
Red jade, deer moss, and orchid stones can all be used, as well as vermiculite and perlite, or even the specialized soil for succulents sold in the market.
My leaf insertion soil consists of large-particle red jade soil at the bottom layer and a mixture of fine red jade, vermiculite, and rice husk charcoal on the top layer.
III. Timing for Leaf Insertion
It is generally done in spring and autumn because the climatic conditions are favorable for the growth of Twelve-volume plants during these seasons, with active cells and accelerated metabolism, making it the easiest season for leaf insertion to survive. The next best time is winter. Inserting leaves in winter is slower in terms of sprouting, but the probability of rotting leaves is relatively low.
Of course, leaf insertion can also be done in summer, but the results are significantly worse compared to the other three seasons, especially for beginners. It is very challenging, and water control must be carefully managed. Any mistake can easily lead to leaf rot.
IV. Management during Leaf Insertion
The leaf insertion plate I use is quite shallow, with a soil thickness of about 5 centimeters, so the water dries up quickly. Therefore, I usually water the leaf insertion plate thoroughly once a week and spray it every day to maintain some humidity. Personally, I feel that if conditions permit, it would be even simpler in a greenhouse, where the humidity is high. In the greenhouse, I usually just throw the leaves directly on the soil surface and let them root on their own. That is, air humidity is indeed very important! If at home, you can also use the闷养 method, but I don't like it. It just creates some air humidity! If using the闷养 method in summer, be sure to pay attention to watering and ventilation. It's better not to use the闷养 method in summer and just spray water every day!
V. Time for Seedlings to Appear after Leaf Insertion
The time for seedlings to appear after inserting leaves varies from one week to several months. The longest I've heard from friends is 9 months, but my personal leaf insertion usually takes 1-2 months for seedlings to appear! Some even sprout faster, within a week! HOHO
VI. Conditions of Seedlings after Leaf Insertion
1: Roots appear first, followed by seedlings. After inserting the leaves into the planting material for about one week to two months, root nodules begin to appear at the base of the leaf stalk, followed by the formation of succulent roots. As the roots continue to expand and extend into the soil, the connection between the root and the leaf stalk begins to swell and form a bud point, at which point the new growth point (i.e., the seedling) officially appears, followed by the process of seedling expansion and growth.
2: Seedlings appear first, followed by roots. This is manifested by the formation of numerous root nodules at the base of the leaf stalk after inserting the leaves into the planting material, followed by the appearance of one or more bud points, which gradually grow larger. After the seedlings reach a certain size, a small number of fibrous roots emerge from the base of the seedlings.
Analysis of the Advantages and Disadvantages of the Two Seedling Emergence Methods:
The form of roots appearing first, followed by seedlings, has the advantage that because the root system is more developed, it is beneficial for multiple seedlings, as the developed roots can absorb some nutrients from the soil to maintain the growth of the seedlings without completely relying on the nutrition from the leaves. This is a form of protection for the leaves. The disadvantage is that if not properly managed in summer, and the roots rot before seedlings emerge, there will be no harvest.
The form of seedlings appearing first, followed by roots, has the advantage that since the first to emerge are seedlings, even if the leaves rot, the seedlings that have grown to a certain size can be preserved, so the impact of rotting leaves is relatively small. The disadvantage is that because seedlings emerge first, in the absence of roots, the nutrients consumed almost entirely come from the leaves themselves, which accelerates the aging of the leaves and reduces the opportunity for subsequent seedlings to emerge.
The advantages and disadvantages of these two methods are difficult to truly clarify. The main reason for these two situations is the humidity control of the leaf insertion bed. Higher humidity increases the probability of roots appearing first, while lower humidity, or even dry insertion, increases the chance of seedlings emerging first. It's not absolute, but this is the case most of the time.
This article shares the method of Twelve-volume propagation — Leaf insertion for reference.