How to plant living stone flowers
Let me tell you a little about the knowledge of living stone flowers, how to plant them, let's understand together.
Many flower friends don't know how to plant living stone flowers. The following is a personal summary from a flower friend who has been raising living stone flowers for eight to nine years, containing a lot of solid experience in caring for living stone flowers, compiled for reference by all flower friends!
Let's first talk about flower pots:
Based on personal experience, for seedlings or sowing, it is recommended to use plastic pots, which have better water retention. 2-3-year-old seedlings can use ceramic or purple sand pots, glazed ceramic pots, and attention should be paid to ventilation because they have good moisture retention.
The depth of the pot should generally be between 10-15CM, which is too shallow for root growth and too deep for ventilation. Whether it's square, round, or cartoon pots, it depends on personal preference, and the color of the pot is not a big issue. Black pots absorb more heat in summer, but it's okay since they won't be exposed to direct sunlight. As for the size of the pot? I suggest a plant spacing of 2CM and a distance of 2CM from the edge of the pot, which is beneficial for plant nutrient supply and ensures that plants will not be squeezed within a 2-year potting cycle.
That's all about pots, now let's talk about soil:
Many beginners (and I was the same way) don't know how to mix soil. Actually, I am quite casual about soil mixing. The key is to ensure good ventilation, breathability, and moisture retention (it sounds like I didn't say anything). Here's an example: For 2-3-year-old seedlings, you can use 4 parts akadama soil, 3 parts peat soil, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part wood ash, 1 part perlite. Of course, you can also choose to add some granular fertilizer into the soil. For sowing, you can increase the proportion of vermiculite and peat soil, and don't use perlite. Sprinkle some vermiculite on the surface to prevent the growth of moss. As for mulching, I think diatomaceous earth is more suitable, as it has a physical insect-killing effect (please search for more details on this, not elaborating further).
Let's talk about watering:
This is indeed a bit of a headache. Many people (including me) have had the experience of plants dying from overwatering or drying out. Actually, there are肉友们 from all over the country, and the temperature and conditions vary greatly from place to place, even in the same city, there can be significant differences depending on the location of the plants. So what can we do? We rely on intuition! Really, this can only be done through intuition and feeling. Generally speaking, when the temperature is between 10-25 degrees and humidity is below 60%, watering is safer. When the temperature is above 30 degrees or below 10 degrees, or humidity is above 60%, the risk of watering increases. But these are just theoretical values, and even with scientific care, children can still die, so it still depends on feeling. Also, it's important to check the weather forecast. If it will be cloudy or rainy in the next 3-5 days, it's not recommended to water. During the plum rain season in the Jiangnan region, watering should be stopped (though I just put it under the window sill and let it rain during the plum rain season, but don't follow my example, I'm not responsible if it gets damaged). In summer and winter, when the temperature is above 30 degrees or below 10 degrees, it's not recommended to water, and you should completely stop watering. Stones are not as fragile as you think; they can survive without water for 4-5 months, and they will just wrinkle a bit, which is fine. When the temperature is suitable, watering will restore them.
Let's talk about how to resume watering. Some friends pour a lot of water on the plants as soon as the temperature is suitable, and many of them die. Watering is a gradual process. You can first pour some water around the pot and then slowly water some more, and after a few days, gradually water thoroughly. I am a violent type, directly watering thoroughly, and the ones with weak constitutions die directly, leaving behind the "strong stones." If you don't mind losing money, you can play this way.
Sunlight, yes, that's also key:
Usually, stones are indoor-cared for in summer and winter, so let's talk about one thing, just like watering, after a good exposure to the sun, what do you see? I don't need to say more. You can start with morning or late afternoon sunlight and gradually increase the intensity and duration of sunlight until full exposure.
In summer, avoid direct sunlight, not because of the sun, but because the temperature is too high. Just provide some shade in the summer.
About fertilizers:
General granular fertilizers for succulents are fine, and for those who are particular, you can bury some base fertilizers in the soil before planting. After planting, don't fertilize for the first 3 months since the roots haven't fully developed yet. After 3 months, you can apply some thin fertilizer, and the key is to apply thin fertilizer frequently. Make sure to dilute it very well. Generally, change the soil every 2-3 years, and not fertilizing or fertilizing less is also fine.
About various stretching problems:
Specific issues require specific analysis. There are three factors for stretching: 1) too much water, 2) too little sun, and 3) the relationship with the variety (Dajin Hui tends to stretch, while Quyu and Huangyu don't stretch easily). Everyone should look for their own problems.
Finally, I want to say: The above is just a personal summary for reference, and I am not responsible if anything dies. Haha! Welcome to the criticism of the gods, and I accept all kinds of rewards, hehe... The following is my own, for reference.
The above [] introduces the complete content of how to plant living stone flowers (summary by flower friends), have the green plant lovers understood?