How to plant succulents
Article summary: Knowledge about succulents, how to plant succulents, detailed introduction below.
In today's popularity of succulents, how to plant succulents is a challenge for succulent enthusiasts. This article is very suitable for新手 succulent enthusiasts, taking common Crassula plants as an example, some common online purchasing, planting, and propagation issues are discussed.
Crassula plants have rich colors, diverse shapes, and most varieties are easy to plant, making them suitable for新手 hobbyists. It is recommended to choose some affordable primary varieties (such as Echeveria, Sempervivum, Echeveria elegans, etc.), even if they accidentally encounter rain, sun exposure, bumps, and the succulents cannot survive, it won't be heartbreaking.
The appropriate planting time for most Crassula plants is during the spring, autumn, and winter seasons, while summer is relatively difficult, so beginners should avoid summer. The best season is autumn and winter. It is not recommended to plant plants of the genus Sedum in late spring and early summer. It is not recommended to mix them with cacti and mesembryanthemum plants. After receiving the Crassula plants, you should check if the plants are healthy. If there are signs of decay, you need to remove the decayed leaves and stems, then dry them before planting.
People often ask why the leaves at the root of the succulents fall off under normal conditions? And why do other people's succulents look so good with old stems? These two questions can be summed up in one answer: old stems are the result of continuous growth of the plant, the stem thickening, and the lowest leaves withering, which is considered an accumulation of years. The plant with old stems in the photo is Sedum nussbaumerianum, and it takes about 2 years for the plant to grow from a cutting into such a stem condition.
Handling of Crassula plants after receiving them
Pruning roots: After receiving Crassula plants, it is recommended to prune the roots before planting. Generally, remove all fibrous roots and leave the main roots. Echeveria is a relatively strong variety and does not need to be pruned, but it needs to be dried.
Drying: Generally, drying for 2-5 days is sufficient for planting. Experienced gardeners know that the safest method is to keep the plant in a shaded and well-ventilated area with the top facing up, without planting it. After about 2-3 weeks, the Crassula plant will naturally develop roots in the air. Planting at this time results in a nearly 100% survival rate. During this period, there is no need to worry about the plant drying out. Even if the plant shrinks significantly, it can recover rapidly. The dried plant can look like this.
Soil mixing: The principle is to ensure good drainage and aeration. Generally, use granular peat, which should be porous, breathable, and lightweight. I use lightweight stone peat (volume ratio 2:1. Particle size: small plants generally choose 1-3MM, large plants like Echeveria choose 3-6MM. A small amount of slow-release fertilizer can be added.) After a long period of planting, you will find that the choice of soil is not very important, just controlling watering and sunlight is fine. In greenhouse propagation, many are grown in the ground, with planting materials being peat or meadow peat and perlite (sometimes, to save costs, they are even directly planted in vegetable garden soil). PS: The reference point is that granular peat is the main ingredient, and more granules should be used. The succulent soil needs to be water-permeable and breathable to prevent root rot.
Planting: Bury the roots of the Crassula plant in the planting material to secure it. Do not bury the fleshy part too deeply. If it is a cutting plant, gently insert it into the planting material. Planting tools such as buckets and tweezers can be used for convenience (tweezers can not only be used to pick up media that accidentally falls into the gaps between succulent leaves but can also be used to flatten the media and push the already planted succulents to the right position very conveniently).
Acclimatization: After planting, the Crassula plant should be placed in a shaded and well-ventilated area with scattered light to wait for root development and recovery. During this period, avoid direct sunlight, prevent waterlogging, and enhance ventilation. In the spring, autumn, and winter seasons, it is relatively easy to develop roots, generally 3-7 days. After the plant has developed roots, it will become plump and can gradually increase sunlight until normal management.
Watering: The principle is to check the weather forecast, avoid watering during rainy days; under sunny conditions, the planting material should be completely dry within 3-4 days. The frequency and amount of watering depend on the type of planting material, pot, environment, sunlight, etc., and there is no unified answer. You need to find the right amount of water for yourself. Generally, water in the evening on sunny days; water more in spring and autumn, less in summer, and less in winter. The safest watering method is to water when the plant is plump and not water when the plant looks dry and dehydrated. This way, the plant will be sturdy and the color relatively easy to brighten.
Sunlight: Crassula plants generally enjoy plenty of sunlight. Plants under sufficient sunlight, with proper watering, will be sturdy, short, and fat, with bright colors and compact growth. Normal home cultivation requires shading in summer, while the rest of the year can be in full sunlight. Experienced gardeners, for Crassula plants, in the case of strong plants and well-developed roots, can also try not to shade all year round. From my personal experience in Shanghai, there is no problem, and the plants look completely different from those shaded.
Surface covering: To enhance aesthetics, the surface of the planting material can be covered with preferred materials.
About outdoor cultivation: In the Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai regions, most Crassula plants can be grown outdoors except in winter, especially common varieties and Echeveria. Some people worry that the interweaving of the rainy season in summer will cause plant death, but this is actually not a problem. Outdoor cultivation can choose smaller pots and plant with granular soil, which allows for faster evaporation of moisture. It is not recommended to use large pots unless the planting material has very good water permeability and aeration. Otherwise, the plant is prone to rot, usually starting from the bottom leaves.
About propagation: Generally, it can be done through cutting, leaf insertion, sowing, and division.
Cutting: It is very simple, just cut the top part of the plant above the roots with a small knife, then dry and root, and plant. Note that the base should have at least 3-5 healthy leaves left, otherwise, the base may die. After cutting, the base should not be watered and should be kept dry for at least 1-2 weeks.
Leaf insertion: Select healthy and plump leaves and carefully remove them, placing them on the surface of the planting soil or inserting them slightly into the soil. Avoid direct sunlight and provide some shading. Then, you need to wait patiently.
Sowing: Generally done in October, the method is the same as for mesembryanthemum seeds... Prepare seeds, sowing soil, pots, plastic wrap, and mycillin before sowing.
A. Cover the drainage holes of the pot with gauze, fill the pot with sowing soil, slightly shake to level the soil. Do not fill it completely, leaving a 3CM space at the top.
B. Sprinkle the seeds into the soil, I usually use my hands to pinch and scatter them, you can also use a folded piece of paper to gently scatter them, just make sure they are evenly distributed.
C. Soak the pot, adding prepared mycillin to the water. The water level should not exceed the soil level, otherwise, the seeds will float. Just soak the soil.
D. Seal with plastic wrap, making sure to leave 1-2 small gaps for ventilation, not sealed.
E. Place in a scattered light area, avoiding direct sunlight!
F. Generally, seedlings start to emerge 3-7 days after sowing, and most seedlings sprout within the first two weeks. If the germination rate is low, you can continue to keep the pot closed for another week. During this time, as my soil has good water retention, there is usually no need to water. If the pot feels very light, you can soak it appropriately, but avoid too much water after seedlings emerge as they can easily rot.
G. After 3 weeks, the seedlings are basically done emerging, and you can gradually increase sunlight.
H. After seedlings emerge, sometimes they may fall over, in which case you can use coarse sand to support them.
I. In the second year, the seedlings will grow and need to be transplanted.
How to survive winter and summer
In areas where the temperature drops below zero, indoor winter care with less water and as much sunlight as possible. In areas where the temperature is above 5 degrees, control watering, and generally there won't be much of a problem. In summer, shade, enhance ventilation, and if possible, use air conditioning. Some varieties cannot survive the hot summer without air conditioning, such as Sedum nussbaumerianum.
That is all about how to plant succulents, I hope it helps you!