Detailed Method for Repotting Succulents
Today, let's delve into the knowledge of succulents, with a detailed explanation of the repotting method for succulents. Let's take a look together.
In the spring, when succulents grow vigorously, many plant enthusiasts are ready to roll up their sleeves and get to work. Propagation, repotting, changing soil, transplanting seedlings, and buying new plants are all in full swing. I've often heard plant enthusiasts say that their newly purchased or recently repotted succulents are not in good condition, either limp or shedding leaves, and they are worried. Let's clear up some misconceptions here; if you already know how to do it, you don't need to read further. First, I'll talk about the general repotting method for newly purchased succulents (personal methods are for reference only), and then I'll discuss the plant's condition and performance after repotting.
I. Repotting Method for Succulents
1. Discard all the soil from the original pot, whether bought from a flower market, greenhouse, or online (online purchases usually don't come with potting soil).
2. Wash the roots to remove as much soil as possible from the roots. This is because there may be a large number of eggs and bacteria. Wash gently to minimize root damage, which is inevitable, but try to cause as little damage as possible. You can shake the roots in a basin of water. It's recommended not to use a strong stream of water from the faucet, as this will break many roots. Repeat the shaking and soaking process several times until the white main roots are visible.
3. After washing the roots, if necessary, trim the roots. Cut off the blackened or hollowed-out sick and dead roots, and also trim the long, tangled lateral roots to encourage the growth of new fibrous roots. This will make the root system look evenly distributed and neat. After root pruning, the new roots that regenerate will be stronger, making the plant grow healthier. If you're unsure, you can skip this step; just remove the dead and sick roots.
4. The roots will definitely be damaged at this point, so they need to be soaked in a properly mixed fungicide for about an hour. You can use Multi-Cure, Chlorothalonil, or Methylthiophanate. Don't make the concentration too high; you can soak multiple plants in a small basin.
5. After the fungicide treatment, let the roots dry naturally. Generally, you can repot the same day.
6. Prepare the potting mix and disinfect it beforehand.
7. Choose a pot and spray it with a fungicide. I personally recommend unglazed clay pots for succulents in the Crassula family. For the Haworthia genus, you can choose resin or plastic containers. If you're focused on appearance, you can choose a ceramic pot, but it must have drainage holes. Don't consider materials like iron or woven baskets, as they can rust or mildew, driving you crazy. It may not be obvious at first, but you'll see it over time, and it's like sending your succulents into the jaws of death. Don't act impulsively and then regret it!
8. Put the disinfected potting mix into the pot, following the principle of large particles at the bottom and small particles on top. The particle size of the mix decreases from bottom to top, which aids in drainage.
9. Plant the succulent and cover the roots completely with soil. Press the soil gently with your fingers, then spray a thin layer of fungicide on the soil surface to make it slightly moist. A little moisture is enough to help new roots emerge. The rule is " moist soil for dry planting," not "wet soil for dry planting"! There is a difference.
10. After potting, place the plant in a bright area with scattered light, avoiding direct sunlight. Keep the area well-ventilated and cool, and do not water. This is the acclimatization stage.
11. After a week, resume watering and full sunlight, and care normally. During the acclimatization period, if the soil is too dry, you can spray a thin layer of water mist or fungicide on the soil surface each day to increase humidity, but be careful not to overdo it! After the acclimatization period, water decisively, or the plant will become continuously wilted, limp, and shed leaves, possibly increasing the mortality rate.
Actually, these are the most conservative methods, and the resilience of many succulent species is beyond imagination. You'll find that these methods are overly complicated after keeping them for a while, and only more delicate species need such a complex process. However, if you're new to succulents and haven't fully grasped their habits, it's better to stick to the conservative methods. If you're an experienced grower, continue as usual. Just to repeat one last time, this repotting method is only for the growing season; don't do it during the dormant period... If you want to force it, be prepared to take responsibility for the consequences of your actions...
II. Post-Repotting Condition and Performance
Usually, after a succulent is repotted, you'll find it either limp or shedding leaves. Many plant enthusiasts get anxious and look for solutions everywhere, but you need to stay calm and analyze the situation (actually, most of the time, it's the situation 2, and it's unnecessary worry).
Situation 1: Not following the repotting method I described above.
This may lead to bacterial infection of the roots or plant after repotting. Or the plant may have had diseases or damage when purchased, or the potting soil may not have been disinfected thoroughly. Exclude damage and pests, and it's bacterial infection. Excessive moisture in the substrate is the most common cause of bacterial infection, so don't water excessively during acclimatization because the roots don't have the ability to absorb nutrients and water at this point. Too much moisture in the substrate will only cause bacteria to multiply, increasing the chance of root rot.
Situation 2: There's nothing to worry about, as this is a normal phenomenon.
When plants are repotted, the root system is inevitably damaged, so acclimatization is actually about root recovery. When the roots are not fully recovered and cannot absorb nutrients and water normally, the plant will rely on the nutrients stored in the outer old leaves to maintain normal physiological functions and growth of new tissues. The resulting state is limp stems and leaves, and the outer old leaves will gradually wither and fall off. At this point, you don't need to worry about any health issues with the plant. Once the roots recover, the old leaves will stop withering and falling, and the growth point of the plant will show activity and start growing. However, the shedding of old leaves is something that healthy plants will all experience, and plants with recovering roots will show faster shedding of old leaves. The old leaves are sacrificing themselves for the greater good.
To determine if the roots have recovered and started growing, you can gently lift the plant by the stem to feel if it has a slight "grabbing force," which indicates that the roots have taken hold. But don't pull too hard and uproot the plant.
The old leaves that have exhausted their nutrients are basically like a piece of parchment. Once the old leaves become soft and dry, you don't need to remove them提前. They will naturally fall off when all the nutrients are consumed. Removing them提前 will accelerate the shedding of another leaf. They shed in a specific order.
Then, after the acclimatization period, the plant should be watered normally. Don't be afraid to water anymore; otherwise, even if the roots recover, they won't be able to absorb enough nutrients and water for the plant, which will remain wilted, limp, and shedding leaves, and never achieve the best ornamental effect.
Have you understood the detailed introduction of the repotting method for succulents (with pictures)?