12 volumes
Answer questions for netizens about the small knowledge of Haworthia (Haworthia), a type of succulent plant, the complete breeding guide for Haworthia, let's take a look together!
To grow Haworthia well, it is first necessary to have a preliminary understanding of the climatic and environmental conditions of the native habitat, and try to create a suitable environment and conditions for their growth during breeding.
Haworthia is mainly produced in the cool coastal desert areas of the Cape Province in the southern part of South Africa. It borders the Atlantic Ocean and the Indian Ocean, with little rainfall and frequent fog throughout the year. A small amount of rainfall occurs in winter, with an average temperature of 12°C-15°C, similar to our spring and autumn seasons, which is their peak growing season. Most of what we cultivate now are some horticultural varieties or cultivated varieties, with relatively looser breeding conditions.
Firstly, let's talk about breeding:
1. Pot: Haworthia has a well-developed root system, and it's best to use a deep pot with a height greater than its diameter. The material should be breathable, such as earthenware or ceramic pots. However, these may be too heavy and unattractive for home cultivation, so under the premise of increasing medium breathability, resin, ceramic, or plastic pots can also be used. Plastic pots are the preferred choice for home cultivation due to their lightweight, aging resistance, and low cost.
2. Soil: Many flower enthusiasts often ask what kind of soil to use. In fact, we should know that soil is just a carrier, used to fix the plant and absorb water and nutrients for plant growth. The soil in the native habitat should be the most suitable for their growth, but even if we bring it from South Africa, it may not grow well due to different breeding environments, so there is no need to rely on specific soil types. It should be adapted to local conditions and materials, as long as it contains a certain amount of humus and meets the conditions of breathability and water retention, the plant can grow healthily. The conditions of breathability and water retention seem to be contradictory, but they should be gradually unified according to personal breeding environment and maintenance habits.
Based on local availability, you can use humus-rich peat soil, loam soil, or decomposed leaf soil; breathable lightweight materials such as broken red brick, river sand, weathered mountain sand, akadama soil, pumice, orchid stone, perlite, etc.; and phosphorus and potassium-rich materials such as rice husk charcoal, wood ash, etc., mixed in a ratio of 3:6:1. If conditions allow, you can also add a small amount of calcium-containing materials such as eggshell powder, bone meal, shell or coral powder (but must be thoroughly washed to remove salt). Sieve out the dust, with particle diameter of 0.5-3mm. Adjust the ratio of humus or lightweight materials based on the humidity of the planting environment (indoor or outdoor? South or north?), the breathability of the pot (earthenware or plastic, ceramic pot?), and personal planting habits (frequency of watering).
3. Water: Tap water can be used after being exposed to sunlight for a day, but rainwater or other soft water is best.
4. Light: Some introductions say that Haworthia prefers semi-shade, but this is not the case. With a healthy root system, full sunlight can be gradually introduced from late autumn to early summer. In the late summer and early autumn when sunlight is strong, appropriate shading can be applied to prevent sunburn, using 50% shade net or two layers of window screen. For a small number of plants, a couple of layers of facial tissue can be covered on individual plants (this method can also be used for newly purchased plants during the adaptation period).
5. Air: Often overlooked, fresh air circulation is very important for increasing plant disease resistance and reducing pest occurrence (so some plants in stuffy or closed greenhouses often crack or wilt when moved to a new environment).
6. Fertilizer: Haworthia does not like fertilizer. If pots are changed every year, fertilizer is not necessary. In the spring and autumn growing seasons, you can apply a thin liquid fertilizer with phosphorus and potassium two to three times (fermented beer, ripe fish scales, bone meal water, etc.). If not planning to change pots every year, a small amount of dung fertilizer from cows, chickens, or other poultry can be buried at the bottom of the pot during planting, but it must be fully decomposed and fermented, and strictly sterilized and disinfected. Inorganic fertilizers can make plants dependent, so they are not recommended.
7. Potting and planting: Although Haworthia is a winter-type species, it basically does not enter deep dormancy except for very short periods of extremely high or low temperatures in winter and summer, and can grow at temperatures ranging from 5°C to 40°C. Therefore, potting is best done before the peak growing season in spring and autumn. Do not water before potting, turn the plant upside down, remove dry, hollow, or decayed old roots, and try not to damage the healthy root system. Apply bactericidal powder such as thiram or carbendazim to any wounds. It's best to use new medium because the old potting soil may have accumulated salt or other harmful substances at the bottom. The bottom of the pot should be placed with 1/5 of the large-particle lightweight material to facilitate drainage and aeration. The planting soil should not be too dry or too wet, just enough to form a ball when held in the hand. After planting, press the pot to eliminate large gaps in the soil to prevent short circuits when watering. Then cover the top with a layer of medium-grain orchid stone or other breathable material, which is not just for appearance, but mainly to separate the plant from the potting soil and prevent infection during watering or fertilizing. Place the planted plant in a diffused light area to acclimate, without watering or spraying water. After one to two weeks, when new roots have grown, water thoroughly and gradually increase light to normal management.
8. Daily management: It is best to place the plant on a south-facing terrace, balcony, or window sill, where sunlight can shine from above, which is often not achievable in home cultivation. The window sill receives oblique light. To prevent phototropism, the pot should be rotated periodically, about once every half month during the growing season. However, ensure at least two hours of sunlight every day. Watering should be done in the morning on sunny days in spring, summer, and autumn, and at noon in winter.
9. Disease and pest treatment and prevention: Haworthia is relatively robust, with few occurrences of diseases and pests. The main diseases are root rot or leaf rot. If detected early,腐叶 can be removed or腐根 can be cut and sterilized, then dried in the sun, often without losing the plant. It is generally not contagious, and some hard-leafed Haworthia may also have dry tips under suitable humidity conditions, which seems to be a natural phenomenon and not a disease. Pests occasionally include red spiders and nematodes, which can be sprayed with insecticides when detected. However, prevention is better than cure, so it's best to mix insecticides such as furan dan in the potting soil and spray bactericides such as thiram, carbendazim, and zinc omadine regularly (every half month during the growing season).
Below is a brief discussion on the breeding of Haworthia:
Haworthia breeding is divided into sexual and asexual reproduction.
Haworthia flowers are relatively small, and natural pollination is relatively difficult. Artificial pollination: Select two flowering plants of similar size and flowering period in the morning from 11 am to 2 pm, gently tear open the lower petals of the female parent to expose the stigma, and tear off the petals of the male parent, leaving the stamen (the pistil and stamen are very small, so they can be retained entirely, with gentle movements to reduce pollen loss), and apply it to the stigma of the female parent. After about 5 days, the base of the flower swells, indicating successful pollination. When mature, the seed capsule cracks open, and a plastic or paper bag should be placed over it. It is best to sow the seeds immediately after harvesting.
Asexual reproduction: Haworthia asexual reproduction includes leaf insertion, topping, division, and root insertion (not suitable for hard-leafed Haworthia).
Leaf insertion: Select healthy old leaves from mature plants, remove them from the base, let them heal for 1-2 days, then place or insert them in moist, nutrient-free medium, keeping the humidity closed and in diffused light.
Topping: Select mature, strong old plants, make a transverse cut at the stem base, apply bactericidal powder, let the top dry, and then insert it, allowing basal buds to develop.
Division: This is done during potting.
Root insertion: Suitable only for soft-leafed Haworthia with thick, fleshy roots, best done during spring and autumn potting by cutting off 2-year-old healthy old roots and inserting them into moist, nutrient-free medium, keeping the humidity closed and in diffused light.
The above are purely personal views, offered as a brick to attract jade, and I hope for the corrections and joint discussion of enthusiasts. Experience is limited and there may be misunderstandings, so I sincerely request the discussion of enthusiasts.
以上是关于Haworthia (Haworthia)养殖全攻略的全部内容，供您全面了解参考！