Stonecrop propagation without roots
For many girls, an introduction to the succulent plant stonecrop, the propagation of stonecrop without roots, let's learn about it together.
Let's talk about the propagation of stonecrop without roots. Usually, when播种 (sowing) stonecrop, it has roots. Why is there no root? The main reasons are: when potting, too much force is used and the roots are broken directly, or the roots are accidentally dropped after potting. Also, in a state of low water, the roots of stonecrop will basically dry out, and the roots will fall off when lightly touched. Moreover, online shopping is now quite popular, and stonecrop is often thrown around during delivery, which is also easy to break the roots. Many flower friends are at a loss in this situation.
However, no matter what method is used, as long as there are no roots and no wounds on the surface, flower friends can directly pot the stonecrop, using smaller particles of soil, half of which should be in the soil. After potting, soak or semi-soak with water containing carbendazim, depending on the weather. Whether it's more water or less water, it needs to be replenished with carbendazim water when dry, keeping the soil slightly moist. For stonecrop without roots and no significant wounds, new roots will generally grow in 7 to 15 days, and some may take up to a month or even two months due to temperature differences.
When the plant grows new roots and absorbs water, it will slowly become plump. At this point, it can be managed normally. Sometimes, even when watered, it may not recover and remain wrinkled. In this case, the stonecrop should be moved to a different location, repotted, and watered with carbendazim. It can be watered thoroughly without worrying about rotting, as the soil is breathable and the carbendazim is diluted when watering, which usually doesn't cause any problems. After watering, keep it in a shaded and well-ventilated area, avoiding direct sunlight. Generally, after moving twice, the plant will recover and grow new roots. This method is suitable for all plants with or without roots that are wrinkled and unable to grow new roots.
Also, some plants may crack during the delivery process or accidentally fall and break during transplanting. For stonecrop with fresh wounds, the main thing to do is to prevent the wound from getting wet, directly absorbing the moisture from the wound with a tissue. If the wound is very dirty, it can be rinsed with tap water and then the moisture from the wound can be absorbed with a tissue. No matter how the wound is treated, after absorbing the moisture, it should be placed in a shaded and well-ventilated area to dry the wound. Never place it in direct sunlight, as this can cause the plant to lose moisture rapidly. The cracked wound of stonecrop is made up of small blisters under a microscope. The cracked wound is like a small bag torn open, with the water from the bag flowing out. The intact parts are protected by their own tissue, similar to how packaging bubbles work. When one bubble is popped, the air in the other bubbles does not escape. Once the cracked wound is slightly dry, it can be potted.
There is also the question of whether carbendazim powder can be applied. The experience is to avoid applying carbendazim powder as much as possible. Why? Because stonecrop is made up of water tissue, applying carbendazim powder can cause the wound to shrink, similar to when our skin is accidentally cut. If it stops bleeding naturally, the wound will heal quickly. If antiseptic is applied, the wound will not only hurt, but also heal slower than if it is left to dry naturally. This is a metaphor and may not be completely accurate. I once experimented by sprinkling carbendazim powder on a cut wound. Although the moisture dried up quickly, the surrounding area shrank quickly. It seems that the carbendazim powder stimulated the healthy tissue, causing the moisture to evaporate faster, and root growth was slower than natural drying. Therefore, I do not recommend applying carbendazim powder directly to fresh stonecrop wounds but rather letting them dry naturally. After drying the wound to avoid secondary infection, it is generally necessary to water with carbendazim, as the wound has healed, and watering with carbendazim will not affect the wound surface. Keep the soil slightly moist until new roots grow.
How to describe the dryness of the wound? It's like when we eat pomelo, peeling and separating it into segments. The protective film is soft and slightly moist. After one or two days in a natural state, the outer film will dry and become difficult to peel off. The stonecrop wound is like a dried film. When it looks dry, it can be potted. If flower friends really can't judge whether it is completely dry, they might as well ventilate for two more days. As long as it's not exposed to direct sunlight, it should be fine. After potting, avoid excessive moisture contact with the wound. This excessive moisture refers to the time the moisture stays on the wound. Generally, after the ball cracks and the crack is exposed to water, it is not easy to dry in bad weather, and the wound may rot again after a long time. Therefore, such wounds need to be taken care of. If there are no roots or if they are broken, there is no need to worry about moisture contacting the wound, as the soil is made of small particles and allows airflow. After watering with a mixture of carbendazim, the healed wound will generally not be infected unless the soil is too moist and does not dry easily, which may cause the wound to rot again.
Let's illustrate this with a physical example:
The stonecrop in the picture was accidentally dropped and the roots were broken a month ago. I cut off a bit of the root and dried the wound before directly planting it in slightly moist river sand. The wrinkled stonecrop next to it is due to seasonal changes, and water was given at the same time. After it dried out, it was watered with carbendazim water.
Today, I pulled it up and found that it has grown new roots. There are two places where the roots have emerged, and the time of emergence is different. The newly emerging roots are tender, and the earlier ones have formed normal fibrous root colors. Although the older roots are a bit aged, they do not affect water and nutrient absorption. After repeated watering and drying, the root system will become more developed. However, the new roots will generally be thin fibrous roots, and there will not be just one point of emergence. Over time, it is possible for new roots to grow from every water tissue in the cross-section. Of course, when there is enough water to supply the plant's growth, the new roots generally will not fill the entire cross-section because plants have the function of self-repairing wounds. The cross-section will gradually shrink over time.
This article shares a comprehensive introduction to the propagation of stonecrop without roots (with pictures and text), hoping to bring some knowledge about green plants to green plant enthusiasts.