The propagation methods of gardenia 《Several ways of propagating gardenia》

Methods of propagation for gardenia

Do you understand these? Here is an explanation of gardenia propagation methods. The following is a detailed answer by the editor for you.

Gardenias are mainly propagated by cutting and layering, and can also be propagated by seeding, dividing the roots, or by water insertion to root:

1. Cutting propagation

In the north, cutting can be done from October to November in a greenhouse, while in the south, it can be done from April to the beginning of autumn at any time, but the survival rate is highest between summer and autumn. The cuttings should be healthy two-year-old branches, 10-12 cm in length, with the lower leaves removed and the bottom cut at a 45-degree angle. Bundle 20-30 cuttings together, dip the cut ends into a 0.05% rooting powder solution or a 0.05% naphthalene acetic acid solution for 15 seconds, then let them dry before inserting into sand. Place the cuttings at a spacing of 20-25 cm row distance and 7-8 cm plant distance, inserting 2/3 of the cutting into the soil, pressing down and watering, and setting up a low shade shed.

Under 80% relative humidity and a temperature of 20-24°C, roots can form in about 15 days. Soaking in 20*10^-6 to 50*10^-6 indole butyric acid for 24 hours can yield better results. When the young seedlings begin to grow, transplant or pot them individually, and they can bloom after 2 years. In the north, water insertion can also be used for propagation by soaking the base of the cuttings in clean water, changing the water daily, and placing the container in a semi-shaded area for about 20 days to grow new roots. This method not only yields a large number of seedlings but also accelerates flowering and fruiting while maintaining the parent plant's good traits.

2. Layering propagation

In April, select healthy branches 25-30 cm long from three-year-old parent plants for layering. If there are branchlets, you can get three seedlings at the fork. Generally, it takes 20-30 days to root, and by June, they can be separated from the parent plant and transplanted or potted individually the following spring.

3. Seed propagation

Usually done in spring, seeds germinate slowly, taking about a year to sprout and 3-4 years to bloom. It's not easy to get seeds from potted plants in the north.

(1) Seed selection: Choose mature fruits that are plump and dark red, dry them with the shell on, and then cut open the seed coat with scissors, extract the seeds, rub them in hot water to remove floaters or impurities, and then take out the dense seeds and spread them on a bamboo mat to air-dry excess moisture before sowing.

(2) Land preparation: Choose deep, loose, and fertile sandy loam soil, plow 1-1.5 feet deep, make ridges 4-5 feet wide with 6-inch high ridges, apply 20-30 loads of human manure per mu, and after the soil dries, lightly rake the clods and level the ridge surface. Make播种 trenches with a row spacing of 6-7 inches and a depth of about 1 inch for sowing.

(3) Seedling raising: Spring or autumn sowing is possible. Spring sowing is done around the time of rainwater, and autumn sowing is done around the time of the autumnal equinox. Mix the seeds with wood ash and evenly spread them in the播种 trenches, then cover them with fine soil or wood ash, mulch with straw, and keep the soil moist to aid germination, using 4-6 pounds of seeds per mu.

Seedling management: After sowing, keep the ridge surface moist by watering regularly, and it will take about 20 days for the seedlings to emerge. Remove the mulch after the seedlings emerge, and then strengthen management. Thin the seedlings when they have 2-3 true leaves, removing dense and weak seedlings. When they have 5 true leaves, space them 5-8 cm apart and keep the seedling area free of weeds. Appropriate fertilization should be done, with autumn-sown seedling beds receiving 2-3 applications in the first year and 1 application each in spring, summer, and autumn of the second year; spring-sown seedling beds receiving applications in all seasons. Combine hoeing and weeding with the application of 1000-1500 kg of human and animal waste water per mu. Autumn-sown seedlings can be transplanted at the end of autumn or beginning of winter of the second year when they are over 30 cm tall, and spring-sown seedlings can be transplanted in the second spring when they reach 30 cm, or continue to cultivate until the end of autumn if they haven't reached 30 cm tall. This method can yield a large number of seedlings.

4. Division propagation: Gardenias often grow many suckers around the root zone. Every early spring or late autumn, choose healthy plants, dig around the surface soil, and cut the suckers from the parent root connection to use as seedlings for planting.

4. Water insertion rooting

Take one-year-old branches 10-12 cm long, leaving 2-4 leaves. Cut the tip of the branch into a horse ear shape and soak it in a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution for 4-6 hours, then insert it into clean water, with 1/3 of the cutting length underwater. Use a brown bottle as a container and change the water every 1-2 days; you can also drill holes in a board or foam board, insert the cuttings into the holes, and float them on the water, with 2/3 of the cutting length above the floating object and 1/3 underwater.

When new roots have formed, move them from a darker place to a brighter one. When the roots are 1.5-2 cm long and there are 6-7 roots per plant, they can be transplanted into pots or planted in the ground.

The above content on gardenia propagation methods is hoped to be helpful to you!