The growing environment and characteristics of orchids, the ecological environment and features of orchids.

Orchid Growing Environment and Characteristics

This article's core introduction: The content about orchid growing environment and characteristics in the field of green plants and flowers. Let's introduce it to you.

Orchid Growing Environment and Characteristics

Orchids prefer shady places and often choose to grow in mountainous areas that are shady, well-ventilated, and do not accumulate water. The usual planting time is in March of the spring or September of the autumn. They cannot be exposed to direct sunlight and need to be watered regularly. The soil for planting should be selected as slightly acidic soil to be conducive to their growth.

Orchid Morphological Features and Appearance

Orchids are monocotyledonous plants, Orchidaceae, Orchidaceae plants. They are epiphytic or terrestrial herbs. They have several to many leaves, usually grow at the base or lower node of pseudobulbs, in two rows, with a band-shaped or rarely inverted lanceolate to narrow elliptical shape, with a broad sheath at the base that wraps around the pseudobulb and has joints.

Suitable Growing Environment and Conditions for Orchids

Orchids usually grow in forests, mountain slopes, cliffs, and other well-drained and well-ventilated environments in orchid-producing areas, and semi-sunny and semi-shady. Especially, positions that do not accumulate water even after heavy rain are preferred. Some epiphytic orchids choose to grow in the shade of large trees. Orchids prefer cool and shady places and often choose to grow in mountainous areas that are shady, well-ventilated, and do not accumulate water. Orchids in China prefer warm, humid, and semi-shady environments. Orchids have strong cold tolerance, and the overwintering temperature of about 5℃ is beneficial to their flower bud development. If the temperature exceeds 10℃, the flower buds formed in autumn are prone to wither underground or fail to elongate, resulting in abnormal flowering. Cymbidiums, Cymbidium sinense, and Cymbidium goeringii require higher temperatures in winter. They require 70% to 90% shade, avoid high temperatures, dryness, and direct strong light, fear alkaline soil and waterlogging. The suitable growing temperature is 18℃ to 24℃ from March to September. Their leaves have a small area, are mostly leathery, and have fleshy roots. Therefore, soil waterlogging is easy to rot the roots and even cause death, so there is a saying of "dry orchids and wet chrysanthemums". Orchids should be ventilated and avoid pollution. Keeping fresh air around orchid leaves is conducive to the process of photosynthesis and internal respiration. If the air is not circulated, the orchids will be weak and prone to pest damage. If the care place is contaminated with harmful substances such as sulfur dioxide, hydrogen fluoride, and dust, the orchids will not grow well. Orchids generally have different temperature requirements depending on the species. Cymbidium and Cymbidium goeringii have strong cold tolerance, and the overwintering temperature of about 6℃ is beneficial to their flower bud development. If the temperature exceeds 12℃, the flower buds formed in autumn are also prone to wither underground or fail to elongate, resulting in abnormal flowering. Cymbidium, Cymbidium sinense, and Cymbidium goeringii require higher temperatures in winter to overwinter and flower normally. Generally speaking, the lowest limit temperature for raising orchids is 8℃, the highest limit temperature is 35℃, and 18℃ to 30℃ is the best care temperature for orchids. When the temperature drops to 8℃, they should be moved indoors for the winter, and when the early spring temperature reaches 10%, they can be moved outdoors.

Orchid Growth Process

The seedling stage of orchids is from sowing to planting, that is, from sowing to the unfolding of 5 to 6 true leaves, with a seedling age of 30 to 40 days. The vegetative growth period is from planting to the appearance of flower balls, which takes about 60 to 90 days. This period is for leaf cluster growth and inflorescence differentiation, requiring sufficient nutrients to promote the vigorous growth of leaf clusters, accumulate more assimilates, and lay the foundation for the development of flower balls. The flower ball growth period is from the appearance of flower balls to harvest, which takes about 15 to 20 days. During this period, after the appearance of flower balls, the flower buds and flower stems continue to develop and grow, forming flower balls composed of several shortened fleshy flower stems and flower buds, reaching the commodity harvest standard. The flowering and seed-bearing period is from the expansion of flower buds to seed harvest, which takes about 90 days.

Orchid Planting Time and Methods

Usually, the planting time for orchids is selected in March of the spring or September of the autumn. The soil for growing orchids should choose slightly acidic and humus-rich soil to help orchids grow. Orchids are shade-loving plants, and direct sunlight should be avoided. The cultivation of orchids also has certain requirements for temperature, preferably between 17-25 degrees Celsius. Later care for orchids also needs attention. Orchids need to be watered regularly, slowly poured to the roots of orchids, and do not pour water on the branches and leaves of orchids.

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Knowledge Expansion

What to Do If Orchids Do Not Grow New Roots or Seedlings

If orchids always do not grow new roots, and the small seedlings that come out do not grow, this is a problem with the orchid roots. We should promptly repot and check the root conditions of the potted orchids in detail to find out where the problems of "not growing new roots" and "not growing small seedlings" are, and then we can figure out how to solve them. As the saying goes, "First cultivate the roots when raising orchids." If the roots of orchids are good, then the leaves will be vigorous and the flowers will be fragrant.

Some orchid friends have asked: If orchids always do not grow new roots, and the small seedlings that come out do not grow, what should I do?

If orchids always do not grow new roots, and the small seedlings that come out do not grow, this is a problem with the orchid roots.

We should promptly repot and check the root conditions of the potted orchids in detail to find out where the problems of "not growing new roots" and "not growing small seedlings" are, and then we can figure out how to solve them.

Some orchid friends who are new to raising orchids, due to a lack of understanding of the habits of orchids, find it difficult to raise orchids well, either not growing new roots or the small seedlings that came out do not grow.

The main reason is that the roots of the orchids rot. As the saying goes, "First cultivate the roots when raising orchids." If the roots of orchids are good, then the leaves will be vigorous and the flowers will be fragrant. The main reasons for root rot are as follows:

1) Cultivation medium lacks water filtration and air permeability

It is very important that the roots of orchids absorb oxygen from the gaps in the potting medium for breathing. If the drainage of the potting medium inside the orchid pot is not smooth and the moisture content is too high for a long time, causing waterlogging.

The gaps in the medium are filled with water molecules and lack oxygen, then the roots of the orchids will be hypoxic, and their breathing function will be hindered, leading to suffocation. Over time, the function of the roots gradually decreases.

At this time, if harmful bacteria invade and reproduce, the roots will rot. If the roots rot, they will not grow new roots, and the small seedlings will not grow anymore because they do not get nutrients.

2) Unhygienic water quality or unsuitable pH value

The water quality for watering orchids must be clean and pollution-free, and the pH value is preferably between 5.5 and 6.5.

If the pH value is below 5, it is acidic water, which limits the absorption of main elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, causing the orchid seedlings to lack main nutrients, and the roots and leaves will show stunted growth and stagnation.

In addition, the acidic environment is conducive to the growth and reproduction of soil-borne diseases such as root rot, which harm the roots and lead to rot and death of orchid roots.

If the pH value is above 8, it is alkaline water, which will hinder the absorption of trace elements required for the growth of orchid plants. The roots and leaf buds will not get the nourishment of trace elements and will gradually wither, and even turn yellow and rot.

How to Care for Large-leaf Cymbidium

For large-leaf Cymbidium, the most suitable growing temperature is between 10-30 degrees Celsius, which is relatively heat-resistant but not cold-resistant. When growing, it needs sufficient sunlight, which will produce more and more beautiful flowers. When planting, fertile soil with good drainage is generally used. It prefers a moist growing environment, so it needs to be watered frequently to keep the soil moist, but avoid waterlogging.

Large-leaf Cymbidium Growing Conditions

For large-leaf Cymbidium, the most suitable growing temperature is between 10-30 degrees Celsius, which is relatively heat-resistant but not cold-resistant. When growing, it needs sufficient sunlight, which will produce more and more beautiful flowers. When planting, fertile soil with good drainage is generally used.

How to Care for Large-leaf Cymbidium

When caring for large-leaf Cymbidium, it needs a temperature environment between 10-30 degrees Celsius, and the temperature in the morning and evening should be above 8 degrees Celsius. Moreover, insulation measures need to be taken in winter to avoid frostbite. During the care period, a lot of water is needed, but waterlogging of the roots should be avoided, and fertilization should be done regularly.

Watering Large-leaf Cymbidium

Large-leaf Cymbidium prefers a moist growing environment, so it needs to be watered frequently to keep the soil moist, but avoid waterlogging.

Fertilizing Large-leaf Cymbidium

When large-leaf Cymbidium is in the seedling stage, more potassium fertilizer should be applied. When it grows into a large plant, organic fertilizer should be mainly applied, and foliar fertilizer should also be applied.

Pest Control for Large-leaf Cymbidium

Large-leaf Cymbidium may have pest and disease occurrences during the care period, especially the (T-J) disease, which is extremely harmful. Therefore, timely treatment with medication is required after occurrence.

Large-leaf Cymbidium Care at Home

1. Light: Large-leaf Cymbidium needs long-term sunlight, but direct exposure to strong sunlight in the summer can cause sunburn, so appropriate shading is needed. In winter, it needs long-term sunlight.

2. Soil: Large-leaf Cymbidium has no high requirements for soil. Fertile, loose, and acidic soil with good drainage is suitable.

3. Watering: Large-leaf Cymbidium has good drought resistance. Its pseudobulbs can store water, so the amount of water required is relatively small. Watering is needed appropriately in the summer, and water should also be sprayed on the leaves to effectively lower the temperature and increase humidity.

4. Fertilizing: Large-leaf Cymbidium has high requirements for fertilizer. In addition to less fertilization or no fertilization in the seedling stage, thin fertilizer water can be applied every 10 days during the growing period. Generally, fertilization is done once a week in spring and summer, 2-3 times a month in autumn, and fertilization is stopped in winter.

Precautions for Large-leaf Cymbidium Care

When caring for large-leaf Cymbidium, it needs sufficient sunlight, but attention should be paid to shading it in a semi-shady place during high temperatures in summer to avoid sunburn. Acidic soil should be used when planting.

How to Handle Cymbidium After Flowering

After Cymbidium flowers, we need to cut off the flower stalks near the pseudobulb with a disinfected pair of scissors and apply disinfectant to the cut. Then, apply a thin potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer, and apply it once every 20 days or so. Also, spray Cymbidium with a fungicide. In addition, pruning is required after Cymbidium finishes flowering, cutting off the withered flowers and flower spikes. Be careful not to prune at the root of the orchid, otherwise, bacteria may easily enter the plant.

1

Handling Cymbidium After Flowering

1. Pruning

After Cymbidium flowers, we need to prune the withered flowers and flower spikes of Cymbidium. Before pruning, disinfect the scissors and apply disinfectant to the cut to promote the healing of the wound and avoid bacterial invasion of Cymbidium, causing harm to it. Do not prune at the root of the orchid, otherwise, bacteria may easily enter the plant.

2. Topdressing Fertilizer

After Cymbidium flowers, compound fertilizer can be applied for buried application, or 1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be sprayed on the leaves, and it can be applied once every 20 days or so. Every 7-10 days, fermented cake fertilizer or farm manure can be applied.

3. Pest and Disease Control

Apply fungicide to Cymbidium to avoid infection by pests and diseases, and prepare for subsequent care.

Care for Cymbidium After Flowering

After Cymbidium finishes flowering, we need to pay attention to the fact that the wound should not be exposed to water, otherwise, it is easy to cause infection. Moreover, we should let Cymbidium have appropriate sunlight and avoid placing it in a completely dark environment all day. Watering Cymbidium should not be too frequent, just keep the soil slightly moist. Normally, water can be sprayed on the leaves with a spray bottle to keep them moist.

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