Philodendron is easy to grow - actually, it prefers excess water and is not afraid of moisture but dislikes dryness.
The editor introduces you to the content about growing Philodendron at home. Philodendron is easy to grow - actually, it prefers excess water and is not afraid of moisture but dislikes dryness, here are the details:
I also like Philodendron, but I can never seem to grow it well. The information on growing plants says that Philodendron needs ventilation and moisture. The roots are as fine as silk threads, the potting soil should be light and well-aerated, but not too dry or too wet. It easily sheds leaves when dry and the roots rot if it's too wet... it seems particularly difficult to care for.
Philodendron
Philodendron
Philodendron
Philodendron
Philodendron
After several years of experimentation, I found that it's not as difficult as the literature suggests. In fact, Philodendron prefers excess water and dislikes dryness, and it's not afraid of being soaked. The idea that "excess moisture causes root rot" might be a misconception. Since Philodendron dislikes dryness but is not afraid of moisture, there's no need to be strict with watering; it's better to err on the side of more rather than less. Don't worry about it drowning in water; it's much easier to care for this way.
I once transferred a Philodendron bought from the flower market (the type with a black plastic soft pot) to a ceramic pot and added clivia soil as a filler. Then I covered the bottom of the pot with a waterproof plastic bag, poured enough water, and tightly sealed the top. Throughout the year, I frequently added water, similar to growing rice. The Philodendron grew well with flourishing flowers. Over time, moss grew inside the plastic bag, but the Philodendron did not rot and die.
During maintenance, the most feared thing is actually spider mites. You have to be especially careful in summer and autumn! Philodendron has dense leaves, making it difficult to spray insecticides. Also, it should be kept indoors during winter. Although the branches and leaves can occasionally withstand low temperatures, to prevent the roots from freezing, it's better to water with warm water. As for fertilizing, I find that the "Blossom King" long-acting organic compound fertilizer sold at the flower market is not bad. It can be sprinkled directly on the surface of the potting soil. Normally, I also pour waste oil from the kitchen exhaust hood directly onto the surface of the potting soil (away from the roots), followed by watering. The effect is not bad. If the leaves turn yellow and thin, apply some ferrous sulfate and spray it on the leaves.
The method of covering the bottom of the pot with a plastic bag always feels outdated and was rated as "lacking taste" by my daughter. So I thought of blocking the bottom hole of the ceramic pot with a rubber plug or directly with cement. This way, the pot doesn't leak, and you don't need a saucer. The top of the pot is open, which can improve the humidity of the air. This is a challenge to the classic theory! I don't dare to be careless. I've tried about 4-5 varieties, and it seems to be mostly like this. Therefore, I hope that those interested in this will try with some inexpensive Philodendron. If successful, it will also be a support for this post. In the photos, Figure 1 is a group photo. Figures 4 and 5 are two pots that have been cared for nearly three years. Last summer and autumn, they got spider mites. Some literature suggests using mosquito coils to control the pests, but the result was that nearly 80% of the leaves, both new and old, turned brown and almost died. It was the previous method of care that helped them recover to their current state. Figures 2 and 3 were bought a month ago. The bottom hole of the pot was blocked, and the same method was applied.
The above shares the easy-to-grow Philodendron - in fact, it prefers excess water and dislikes dryness but is not afraid of moisture (with pictures) for everyone to learn and understand!