How to plant Wisteria best
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Cultivation and maintenance techniques of Wisteria
1 Classification and characteristics of Wisteria varieties
Wisteria is a horticultural ornamental plant native to China, widely distributed in the central and southern parts of the country. After long-term cultivation and domestication, Wisteria has many variants, which can be divided into purple, red, silver, and green Wisteria according to flower color. In the southeastern region of China, both cultivated and wild Wisteria are mostly red-flowered red Wisteria.
Wisteria is a deciduous shrub or small tree. It grows in a shrub shape, 3-7 meters tall; the bark peels off easily, and the trunk is smooth. Young branches are slightly tetragonal and slightly winged. Leaves are alternate or opposite, nearly sessile; elliptical, obovate, or oblong, 3-7 cm long and 2.5-4 cm wide, smooth and hairless or pubescent along the midrib. The older the trunk, the smoother it becomes, and when touched, the whole plant trembles slightly, hence also known as the "startle plant," "itchy plant," or "Jishan Flower Yao." The Wisteria tree looks very lush and gives a visual sense of antique rarity, with very high ornamental value. It is a very important afforestation species in landscape gardening. At the same time, Wisteria has the characteristics of fine leaves, dense branches, thick trunks, and exposed roots, making it the best choice for making bonsai.
2 Cultivation techniques of Wisteria
2.1 Selection of growing environment
Wisteria is strong and easy to cultivate, not strict with soil, but grows best in deep, fertile sandy loam. Wisteria loves light and should be planted in a sunny and windward position or at the root of the south wall of the courtyard. Insufficient light may result in fewer or no flowers, or even weak growth, thin branches, and small leaves. Wisteria is cold-resistant, but young seedlings should be protected from cold in winter, while plants over 3 years old do not need to be insulated. Wisteria is drought-resistant and flood-resistant. It can be watered once before sprouting in spring and after defoliation in autumn each year. It does not need to be watered in normal dry conditions, and waterlogging control should be done in the rainy season. Fertilization can be done after defoliation in winter and before sprouting in spring, using human waste or sesame paste residue to make the plants grow vigorously and have bright flowers the following year.
2.2 Sowing
Sowing is generally suitable for mass propagation. When the seeds mature in October, collect and dry them in time, put them in small cloth bags and store them in a ventilated and dry place. In March of the following year, first soak them in a 0.2% potassium permanganate solution for 24-48 hours for disinfection, then rinse off the remaining potassium permanganate solution with clean water, soak in 40-50°C warm water for 2-3 days, and then dry slightly before sowing. Sow in outdoor open ground, first loosen and level the seedbed soil, make播种 trenches 20-25 cm wide, about 3 cm deep, and evenly scatter seeds in the trenches, spacing 1-2 seeds every 3-4 cm. After sowing, cover the trench and water. Keep shaded and moist. The seedlings can grow out in about 50 days, at which time water thoroughly and carry out tillage and weeding, especially doing a good job of thinning to ensure a spacing of 10-15 cm between seedlings. After one year, they can grow to 20-30 cm tall, and they can bloom in the second year.
2.3 Cutting
Spring cutting is generally done in late April. In winter pruning, cut the sturdy branches that have bloomed the previous year, water the soil to keep it moist, and then dig them out after the Grain Rain of the following year. Cut them into cuttings about 16 cm long and insert them into pre-prepared loose sandy soil, with a spacing of 15-20 cm and a depth of 2/3 of the cutting. After planting, water once and then cover with a layer of fine soil about 5 cm thick. If it doesn't rain, water again after 10-15 days, and after about 40 days, they will germinate. In May, start shading. By July, the seedlings can grow to about 30 cm tall, at which time tillage and weeding should be done. In October, when the seedlings have grown to 50-60 cm, water with decomposed liquid fertilizer and overwinter. In March of the following year, cut the upper branches of the seedlings, leaving a rooted seedling about 30 cm tall for transplantation. After planting, water well and tamp the soil the next day. Pay attention to watering and fertilizing afterwards. They can bloom in the same year.
Summer cutting can be done in June. Select strong branches that are well lignified and free of diseases and pests, cut them into cuttings about 15 cm long with a disinfected pruning shear, remove the lower leaves, leaving only the top two or three leaves, and insert them into a tilled and disinfected seedbed, about 10 cm deep, then cover with a plastic film and reed mat to keep moisture and shade. After cutting, spray water once a day to maintain humidity above 70%, and after 45 days, they can take root. Gradually expose them to light after new buds appear, remove the plastic film, and start fertilizing after two months. When the cuttings overwinter in the seedbed, they should be protected from cold. In April of the following year, they can be transplanted.
3 Maintenance management of Wisteria
Wisteria is relatively adaptable and easy to manage. Generally, apply a growth promoting fertilizer at the beginning of March, a phosphorus-potassium fertilizer from late May to early June to promote the development of strong branches and flowering; apply a flower fertilizer mainly of cake fertilizer water in late July and early September to enhance flower color. If diseases are found, spray with Bordeaux mixture or carbendazim 600 times solution for control. Wisteria mostly blooms at the top of the spring shoots that sprout in the same year. Since the spring sprouting force is relatively strong, the crown growth may not be very uniform, so proper pruning is necessary. To ensure normal flowering and large inflorescences, winter pruning is essential. When planted in the ground, cut off the annual branches at the main branch base to promote branching and flowering in the following year; when planted in a pot, cut off the sprouting, diseased, and overlapping branches, and other branches should be cut short 1 cm above the full terminal bud, leaving only 5 cm for shaping. After flowering, cut off some of the remaining flowers to reduce seed production, reduce nutrient consumption, and promote the growth of new branches and flowering.
The above explanation about how to plant Wisteria best and related cultivation techniques, hoping to bring a little help to your life!