The cultivation method of multi-branched chrysanthemum
A comprehensive explanation of the relevant knowledge of multi-branched chrysanthemum for home gardening, the cultivation method of multi-branched chrysanthemum, let's take a look together!
Multi-branched pot chrysanthemums require uniform growth of each branch, and the cultivation management is labor-intensive. Based on years of experience, the author shares some insights into the cultivation of multi-branched chrysanthemum: There are two types of bud cuttings, basal buds and axillary buds. Basal buds are those that emerge from the base of the mother plant. In winter, when the mother plant is flowering, basal buds are selected, with sufficient nutrition and robust buds for cutting. Basal buds are about 7 to 10 centimeters long, remove the lower leaves, and insert them directly into the earthenware pot, with a depth of 1/2 or 2/3 of the cutting. After insertion, water thoroughly. In winter, place them in a greenhouse with sunlight for maintenance.
Fertilization and water management Chrysanthemums love fertilizer. Reasonable fertilization and water supply are key to promoting robust root and leaf growth, which is essential for successful cultivation. From the seedling stage, it is important not to lack fertilizer or water. As the plant grows, gradually increase the fertilizer concentration. Insufficient fertilization and water can slow down plant growth, cause wilting under high temperatures, and significantly affect future growth and development. In severe cases, basal leaves may turn yellow and fall off, the plant may become weak, and flowers may be small or bloom late.
Single topping Depending on the variety and blooming period, between late July and early August, near the soil surface of the pot, at the densest part of the buds, perform a single topping. Due to the well-developed root system, about a week after topping, at least 6 to 8 buds, or even more than 10 buds, will grow together, strong and fast. When the young branches reach about 10 centimeters in length, select 5, 7, or 9 branches of moderate size and position for topping.
Timely potting After topping, when the new branches grow to more than 10 centimeters, they should be transplanted into larger pots. When potting, remove the soil ball from the pot and loosen the densely entwined roots with your hands, then plant the 5, 7, or 9-headed chrysanthemum plants into pots with diameters of 7, 8, 9, or 10 inches and fill with fertile soil. Be careful not to damage the leaves during potting. If the leaves get dirty, spray water to clean them after planting.
Removing buds and thinning buds During the growth process, new buds will sprout in the leaf axils. These should be removed promptly to concentrate nutrients on flower bud development. After the terminal flower bud forms, all side buds should be removed promptly. If done too early, the small, dense buds may be easily damaged. The best time for thinning is when the side buds grow to the size of mung beans and are just beginning to open, as they can be easily removed with a light touch. If done too late, it will consume too much nutrition and affect the growth and development of the main bud and reduce the quality of the flowers.
Dwarfing treatment After topping, when the branches grow to more than 10 centimeters, spray the tender stems and growth points with a 15% wettable powder formulation of Paclobutrazol at a concentration of 50ppm. For the second time, use 100ppm, for the third time, 150ppm, and the last time, 200ppm to 300ppm. It is best to spray in the evening to promote dwarfing.
Inflorescence arrangement When arranging the inflorescence, the flowers should not be too close or too far apart, with a distance of about 6 centimeters being ideal.
For a 5-headed chrysanthemum, 1 flower is placed in the center and 4 around it, forming a square or pentagon. For a 7-headed chrysanthemum, 1 flower is in the center and 6 around it, forming a hexagon. For a 9-headed chrysanthemum, arrange in 3 neat rows. The central flower of the 5 and 9-headed chrysanthemums should be 3 to 5 centimeters taller than the surrounding flowers.
Flat-top adjustment There are several methods to promote a flat-top appearance:
1. Pinprick method: In late August, when the branches are of uneven height, use a large needle to puncture the stems 2 to 3 centimeters below the tip. Puncture more times for taller branches, fewer times for medium ones, and none for shorter ones. After 2 to 3 pinpricks, the height of the stems can be controlled.
2. Dwarfing method: After the buds appear, apply a high-concentration Paclobutrazol solution to the taller flower stems. This will inhibit the excessive growth of the stems and achieve significant dwarfing.
3. Lengthening method: After mid-October, when the flower buds begin to show color, apply gibberellic acid solution to the shorter stems 1 to 2 times to promote stem elongation and achieve a uniform flat-top appearance.
Disease and pest control Chrysanthemum diseases and pests often occur during the rainy season. Spray fungicides and insecticides every two weeks during the growing season, and once a week after the buds appear to prevent and control diseases and pests.
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