Choosing the Right Time and Techniques for Planting Chrysanthemums in Pots

When to Pot Chrysanthemums

As a traditional famous flower, the potting process of chrysanthemums directly affects the subsequent growth state of the plant. Mastering the correct timing and operation method can help the potted chrysanthemum roots quickly adapt to the new environment and lay a solid foundation for blooming in autumn.

Best Timing for Potting Chrysanthemums

Temperature Advantages in Spring and Autumn

When the temperature stabilizes at about 18℃ from March to May, the vitality of chrysanthemum root germination increases, and potting at this time can shorten the acclimatization period. In September to October, the increased day-night temperature difference, combined with moderate water control, is more conducive to the development of new roots. It is necessary to avoid the high temperature period in summer (>28℃) and the dormant period in winter (<5℃).

Judging the Plant Growth State

When the new buds have 3-4 pairs of true leaves and white roots are visible at the bottom of the pot, it indicates that the plant is ready for transplantation. If the old leaves turn yellow and the roots are entangled in a mass, it is necessary to change the pot immediately.

Standard Operating Procedures for Potted Chrysanthemums

Preparations before Potting

Stop watering 3 days in advance to slightly dry the soil, and loosen the soil along the pot wall with a bamboo stick. Prepare a 500 times solution of carbendazim for soaking tools, prune the withered leaves and dense branches, and retain 5-7 nodes of the main stem.

Steps of Potting

Requirements for Pot Selection and Soil Matching

Choose an unglazed ceramic pot with a diameter 5cm larger than the original pot, and lay a 2cm layer of ceramsite at the bottom. The matrix is prepared according to the ratio of decayed leaf soil: perlite: vermiculite = 5:3:2, with bone meal added as a base fertilizer.

Key Points for Root Treatment

Gently tap the pot wall to remove the soil ball, retaining 1/3 of the protective soil. Cut off the black-brown diseased roots, and keep the white fibrous roots. After drying the roots for 1 hour, soak them in a rooting powder solution for 20 minutes.

Skills for Transplanting and Planting

Fill the soil to 2/3 of the pot height, making a mound in the center. Place the plant in the pot with the root neck 3cm away from the pot edge, and slightly lift the plant when backfilling the soil to allow the roots to spread out. After watering the plant, place it in a shady place for 7 days to recover.

Post-Potting Care and Management

During the recovery period, maintain an air humidity of 60%-70%, and gradually increase sunlight after the new leaves unfold. After 15 days, apply a diluted 2000 times phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and rotate the pot to ensure even sunlight exposure. When the plant grows 10cm taller, perform the first pinching to promote the growth of lateral branches.

By accurately grasping the timing of transplantation and following standard operating procedures, combined with scientific post-care, chrysanthemums can form full flower buds in the autumn of the same year. Regularly observing the plant's condition and adjusting the care plan in a timely manner is the key to achieving a full-pot effect.