How long can Nandina domestica be hydroponically cultivated
Today's sharing: How long can Nandina domestica be hydroponically cultivated and tips for planting Nandina domestica, the following is a brief experience in plant cultivation introduced by the editor of this site.
Nandina domestica is a perennial evergreen shrub of the Berberidaceae family, also known as Nandina, Red Dogwood, Celestial Plant, Redstem Ceanothus, Diamond Yellow, Celestial Bamboo, and Orchid Bamboo. It is a common woody flower species in southern China. It is a traditional cut flower and bonsai material, and due to its superior and elegant appearance, it is often used to make bonsai or potted plants for decorating windowsills, doorways, conferences, etc.
Nandina domestica is native to East Asia, preferring warm and humid environments, with an optimal growth temperature of around 20°C. It is relatively shade-tolerant and can also withstand cold, safely overwintering at temperatures as low as -10°C. It is easy to care for. The cultivation soil should be fertile and well-draining sandy loam. It is not too strict with water requirements, being able to tolerate both humidity and drought. It prefers fertilization and can be applied with more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
I. Propagation methods of Nandina domestica: Nandina domestica is usually propagated by division, cutting, grafting, and seeding.
1. Division propagation: It is usually done in autumn and spring before Nandina domestica germinates, and can also be combined with potting or repotting. In early spring, dig up the Nandina domestica with roots, cut off the underground stem connecting to the mother plant, divide a clump into several clumps, and plant them. It is easy to survive.
2. Seed propagation: After the fruit of Nandina domestica matures in autumn, it can be collected and sown immediately. Sow the seeds in the prepared potting soil, maintain a temperature of around 20°C, and they will germinate in about 20-30 days. When the seedlings are about 10 cm tall, they can be transplanted into pots. It will take three years to bloom.
3. Cutting propagation: Hardwood cuttings are usually used in spring and autumn, and tender cuttings in summer. The cutting bed can be made of coarse sand, vermiculite, or perlite. Under conditions of 18-25°C and humidity, roots will generally form in about 30 days after cutting. Cut the cuttings into 8-10 cm long cuttings, with a row spacing of 10 cm and a plant spacing of 6 cm. After cutting, cover with plastic film or shade the greenhouse, and maintain the relative humidity of the cutting bed space at about 90%. Excessive dryness or moisture is not conducive to root formation.
Post-cutting management of Nandina domestica mainly involves shading and keeping the cutting bed or potting soil moist, maintaining 95% relative humidity of the air, but be careful not to overwater the cutting bed soil. After 20 days, the cuttings can gradually be exposed to sunlight, avoiding high temperatures at noon, removing the covering material, and gradually increasing the duration of sunlight exposure, avoiding direct sunlight. During dry weather, water promptly, keep the ground moist, increase air humidity, and spray the cuttings at 9-10 am and 3-4 pm. It can be transplanted after about a month.
To accelerate the rooting of Nandina domestica cuttings and increase the number of roots, plant growth hormones can be used to treat the cuttings, which has a significant effect on promoting rooting. Common growth hormones include indole butyric acid, indole acetic acid, naphthylacetic acid, 2,4-D, and rooting powder, all of which have a good effect on promoting Nandina domestica rooting. For example, treating old branches with 50-100 ppm indole butyric acid and treating tender branches with 5-225 ppm indole butyric acid as greenwood cuttings. Tie the branches into bundles and soak them in the solution for 12-24 hours. Applying 1000 ppm of 2,4-D powder to the cutting surface also has a significant effect on promoting rooting. Soaking the base of the branches in 0.1-0.5% potassium permanganate for 10-24 hours can also sterilize and promote rooting.
4. Grafting propagation: Use wild Nandina domestica seedlings as rootstocks for cleft grafting, split grafting, and approach grafting.
Split grafting method: Smooth the cut surface after removing the top to facilitate wound healing. Use a grafting knife to make a vertical cut from the center of the top of the rootstock, or gently tap the back of the pruning shears to make a vertical cut. The cut should be about 2-3 times the length of the bud graft. Then, cut one end of the grafting scion into an 8-10 mm long double-sided wedge shape (one side thin, the other slightly thick). Insert the double wedge side of the scion into the rootstock interface, making the two cuts fit tightly. When wrapping the wound with plastic film, also wrap the top cross cut of the graft bud to reduce moisture evaporation, otherwise, it is not easy to survive after grafting.
butt grafting method: The cutting position on the rootstock is one-third to one-fifth of the cross-section downward and slightly inward. The cutting method of the scion is a long cutting surface and a short cutting surface, usually with similar thickness on both sides. Insert the scion with the long cutting surface facing inward and the short cutting surface facing outward, until only a thin line of white is visible. When wrapping, pay special attention to keeping the outer layer of the rootstock cut, the thin part, close to the scion to maintain the maximum contact area of the cambium layers. When wrapping the wound with plastic film, also wrap the top cross cut of the graft bud to reduce moisture evaporation, otherwise, it is not easy to survive after grafting.
Approach grafting method: The method is to plant the scion and rootstock plants separately in pots. During grafting, bring the two close together, cut a wide and narrow similar surface on the opposite sides, and immediately bring them together and seal the wound with a strip of plastic film. After the grafting is successful, cut off the rootstock above the grafting site and the scion below the grafting site to form a grafted seedling.
II. Preparation of potting soil: Use well-draining and fertile sandy loam or a mixture of 40% well-rotted manure, 50% river sand, and 10% garden soil; or 40% leaf mold, 40% sandy soil, and 20% garden soil.
III. Potting: It is generally done in spring or autumn, or repotting every 2-3 years. First, place broken tiles at the bottom of the pot, then fill in the potting soil, place the Nandina domestica cutting or grafted plant in the center of the planting pot, straighten it up, spread the roots, fill the soil to half the pot, slightly lift and shake the Nandina domestica plant to compact the potting soil, and do not plant too deep, keeping the rootstock level with the pot opening. If it is too shallow, it affects survival, and if it is too deep, it affects the growth of Nandina domestica after transplanting. Water thoroughly after planting. After planting, keep it in a shaded environment for about a week, and then move it to a sunny place after the roots recover.
IV. Management: During the growing period, pay attention to watering to prevent the potting soil from drying out. In summer, water every day and sprinkle water around the pot to maintain air humidity. Seedlings should be fertilized frequently with thin fertilizer, about once every 10-15 days. Adult plants should be fertilized once each in spring, summer, and winter. Nandina domestica prefers a shaded and humid environment, so the pot should be placed in a shaded area but not overly shaded to avoid affecting the growth of Nandina domestica. Nandina domestica usually blooms during the plum rain season and often has poor pollination, requiring artificial pollination to increase fruit set. Pot-grown Nandina domestica should be repotted every 2-3 years, with repotting done in spring. During repotting, appropriate pruning can be combined, removing weak and矮 branches, usually leaving 3-5 plants. The pot should not be kept indoors for long, otherwise, the leaves will easily wither and fall off. Nandina domestica has a low germination rate and branching rate, and it fruits on the top, so no pruning is done. After 10 years of cultivation, the aging trees should be pruned and renewed, cutting off the top of the main stem or even from the rhizome to promote new branching.
The above introduction on how long Nandina domestica can be hydroponically cultivated and tips for planting Nandina domestica are complete. Hope it helps green plant enthusiasts!