Method of Propagation for Chinese Skimmia
Today, the editor will elaborate on the knowledge of propagation of Chinese Skimmia, introducing the methods of propagation. Let's find out together.
Chinese Skimmia, also known as Chinese Skimmia Tree, is a perennial evergreen shrub or small tree belonging to the Hamamelidaceae family, commonly known as Wet Bush or Water浆 Bush. It is shade and moisture tolerant, drought and flood resistant, with a unique and beautiful tree shape. The young branches are soft and easy to shape, making it an excellent material for bonsai making, as well as a good greening material with broad prospects.
This article, based on the related work carried out, summarizes the cutting propagation technology on the successful basis of Chinese Skimmia cutting experiments, aiming to lay the foundation for further expanding the population of this unique plant.
1. Preparation of cutting beds, selection and disinfection of substrates
1.1 Selection of cutting location: According to the principle of ecological similarity, the cutting location is chosen within the "Wushan Yudong Rare Botanical Garden". The garden has an average altitude of 350 meters, only 1.5 kilometers away from the confluence of the Yangtze River and the Small Three Gorges, with purple soil, an average annual temperature of 15 degrees, and annual rainfall of 1200 millimeters.
1.2 Setup and disinfection of cutting beds: The beds are semi-underground, made 15 cm deep and 1.2-1.4 meters wide to prevent dry weather and insufficient soil moisture. A 40 cm wide working path is left between the beds for easy operation. First, use furadan granules to control underground pests at the bottom of the beds, then use clean coarse river sand as a base layer for good water and air permeability, and finally, disinfect the beds with a 0.2% potassium permanganate solution.
1.3 Selection and configuration of cutting substrates: To ensure soil aeration and moisture retention, the substrates are chosen as river sand + forest leaf soil (1:1) or loam + river sand (1:2), configured into a slightly acidic substrate.
1.4 Filling and disinfection of cutting substrates: The substrates are made into beds 10-15 cm higher than the ground (actual filling depth of cutting substrates is 25-30 cm), and the substrates are disinfected with a 0.2% potassium permanganate solution two days before cutting, combined with watering to make the soil firm but not compacted.
2. Cutting Time
Except for the severe cold months of December and January, cutting can be done at any other time, mainly focusing on spring (February to May) and autumn (August to September). It is better to cut early rather than late.
3. Preparation of cuttings
3.1 Collection and pruning of cuttings: For semi-woody cuttings, select the current year's branches that are half-woody, preferably cutting from the middle part of the branches, into segments 10-20 cm long, retaining the upper leaves and small branches, and removing excess leaves. For hardwood cuttings, use branches that are two years old or older, except for those with weak growth or dead stems. The rest of the branches, whether from the upper, middle, or lower parts, can be used, cut into 15-20 cm segments. The upper end of the cuttings is cut flat, and the lower end is cut into a horseshoe shape, with a part of the small branches left on the hardwood cuttings, and the small branches pruned as needed for shaping.
Seal the upper end of the cuttings with wax to prevent moisture loss and drying. Bundle the branches into groups of 30 for easy handling; it is best to collect cuttings in the early morning or evening, handle them immediately, and cut them.
3.2 Treatment and cutting of cuttings: Treat the cuttings with a broad-spectrum rooting powder, soak the base of the cuttings in a 1000 ppm aqueous solution for 1 to 30 minutes, or mix talcum powder with rooting powder into a paste and dip the base for 1-2 minutes before cutting; you can also soak the roots in a 500 ppm solution for half an hour to 2 hours, or mix talcum powder with rooting powder into a paste and dip the base for 3 seconds to 1 minute before cutting. Insert the cuttings into the bed at a 7-degree angle (about 60 degrees)斜插 into the bed, with a depth of 2/3 of the cutting length, and a spacing of 5-6 cm between plants. After insertion, press the soil on both sides of the cuttings tightly to ensure close contact between the sand and the base of the cuttings. Water thoroughly after cutting, and use bamboo strips to build a small arch shed with a height of 50-70 cm in the middle, and cover with a plastic film.
4. Management after cutting
The first three months after cutting are critical. It takes two months for Chinese Skimmia to root after cutting, mainly focusing on soil moisture, humidity, temperature control, light control, and fertilization.
4.1 Water management: Before the cuttings root, the water demand is mainly met through the cut surface, the lenticels on the cuttings, and the leaf surface. Keep the soil in the cutting bed moist but not waterlogged, and maintain the relative humidity inside the shed above 90%. Keeping the cutting leaves well-watered is the key to rooting. If the leaves lose water for too long and wither, it will be difficult for the cuttings to root. For autumn cuttings, covering with plastic film after watering can well maintain humidity, and the film should be opened for ventilation once every two days or so, and water should be supplemented for those that are short of water.
For cuttings in August, they can root by January. In the spring, when the ground temperature begins to rise, do not water too much, and keep the air humidity around 85%. After the roots are fully grown, control the water, keep the bed soil dry to promote root growth. For spring cuttings, focus on keeping warm and moist in the early stage, and as the temperature rises, increase the watering frequency and set up shade nets.
4.2 Temperature management: For autumn cuttings, cover the plastic film with a straw mat (used in combination with a shade net) to maintain humidity and prevent high temperatures during sunny days in autumn. Remove the shade net for winter management, using the mat early in the morning and late at night, and covering it on sunny days and removing it on rainy days. In the following year, when the temperature rises, set up a shade net in late April for summer management, and remove all coverings from the next autumn for daily management. For spring cuttings, April to May is an important period for rooting, and a shade net should be set up in late April to prevent direct sunlight. In the later stage, as the temperature rises, remove the film, spray water to supplement, and control the temperature at around 3°C to promote rooting. After the roots are formed in autumn, remove all coverings for daily management.
4.3 Light management: For autumn cuttings, pay attention to shading in early autumn (August and September) using a 75% shade net to prevent direct sunlight and maintain temperature and humidity. After January, gradually increase the light and reduce the soil moisture content. After the roots have grown, carry out daily management. For spring cuttings, set up a shade net in late April for summer management.
4.4 Fertilization management: Start using a 3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution for foliar application two days after cutting, with ventilation every 7-10 days, for a total of 5 times, usually on cloudy days or in the afternoon.
Nie BiHong, Zhou HouLin (Wushan County Forestry Bureau, Chongqing)
The above is the complete content on the propagation method of Chinese Skimmia. Have green plant enthusiasts understood it?