Tree Shaped Rose Planting and Post-planting Daily Management Techniques
This article introduces the green plant and flower introduction of tree-shaped rose planting and post-planting daily management techniques. If there are any mistakes, please correct them!
Tree Shaped Rose Planting and Post-planting Daily Management Techniques
Firstly, the precautions for transplanting tree-shaped roses to the planting area are introduced.
When the roses arrive at the target planting area, avoid direct sunlight during unloading and plant them in the construction site or pots as soon as possible. In special cases, if planting is delayed, do not place the goods in exposed and windy places, ensure that the soil ball does not disintegrate, and prevent dehydration. When planting, be careful, the depth of the hole should meet the standard, 10 centimeters higher than the soil ball (below the ground), and the planting area should not accumulate water. There is no need to untie the beauty bag and strings when planting. After planting, water thoroughly regardless of rain or not. For at least ten consecutive days, water thoroughly once in the morning or evening. There is no need to water on rainy days. For newly transplanted roses in the rooting stage, to ensure the highest survival rate, if there are withered leaves and branches, prune them with a branch剪. Do not apply any fertilizer before they survive.
Secondly, the precautions for potted tree-shaped roses.
1. The selection of pot size for potted roses is important. Due to the limited volume of pot soil and the strong and upright growth habit of roses, the nutrients in the pot soil cannot meet the growth needs of the plants. If the pot is too small, the roots will not be able to grow properly, which will lead to the overall growth of the roses being restricted. According to the size of the selected flowers, match the size specifications of the pots. For example, 3-4 cm diameter ancient stem roses are best suited for pots with a diameter of 40-50 cm. 5-6 cm diameter ancient stem roses are best suited for pots with a diameter of 60-70 cm. 7-8 cm diameter ancient stem roses are best suited for pots with a diameter of 80-90 cm.
2. Soil mixing during the planting process of potted roses.
There are many ways to mix soil for potted tree-shaped roses, usually as long as it is loose and has good breathability. More attention should be paid to ensuring the cleanliness of the soil during soil mixing. According to the texture of the soil, it can be divided into sandy soil, loam soil, etc. Loam soil is between sandy soil and clay soil, having the advantages of both, with enough sand particles for ventilation and water permeability, and enough clay to retain water, heat, and nutrients. Generally, the surface soil of fields and vegetable gardens that have been cultivated for many years is mostly loam soil, which has relatively high fertility and good aggregate structure, making it the main material for rose flower soil mixing and is also easy to obtain. The soil conditions in different places are also different. In some places, the surface soil may have more sand, and some compost can be added before use. In some places, the surface soil may have strong clay, and some sand can be added to improve it before use. It has good drought and waterlogging resistance and is also a traditional potting rose matrix. The collection of sandy soil usually occurs in river gullies, abandoned fish ponds, paddy fields, and other places with accumulated water.
The proportion of soil mixing: sandy soil : loam soil = 6 : 3, sandy soil : decomposed soil = 6 : 4, sandy soil : peat soil = 7 : 3, loam soil : peat soil = 7 : 3.
3. Key precautions for transplanting tree-shaped roses into pots.
Firstly, ensure that the soil ball does not disintegrate when digging up the seedlings. There is no need to untie the beauty bag and the strings or binding tape holding the soil ball, and plant directly into the pot. When planting, place a tile or stone at the bottom of the pot to maintain long-term breathability and convenient drainage. Then, fill one-third of the pot with the prepared soil, fill the soil 10 centimeters higher than the soil ball when planting the roses, water thoroughly once, and shake the main stem of the rose while watering to make the soil settle, and then supplement the soil as needed. After the roses are planted in the pot, focus on cleaning up weak branches, residual branches, and overlapping branches, retain healthy thick branches, reduce the size of the crown by one-third, and remove two-thirds of the leaves from the bottom of the crown. Due to the high water requirement of Rosaceae, water thoroughly once in the morning or evening for at least ten consecutive days, water thoroughly, and spray the main stem of the rose wet while watering. There is no need to water on rainy days. A detail is that the roses should not be soaked in the pot, so the holes at the bottom of the pot must be kept breathable. For newly transplanted roses in the rooting stage, to ensure the highest survival rate, if there are withered leaves and branches, prune them with a branch剪. In the summer, if the daily temperature exceeds 35 degrees Celsius with strong sunlight, use a shading net, usually no shading net is used. Do not use any fertilizer before they survive.
Thirdly, to keep tree-shaped roses strong and healthy, and maintain a healthy and beautiful growth condition, it is first necessary to pay attention to water and fertilizer management, as well as the prevention and control of diseases and pests. In addition, weeding is also very important. Weeds not only compete with tree-shaped roses for nutrients in the soil but are also hosts for diseases and pests that harm roses. "There is another more important task, which is pruning. Tree-shaped roses should be pruned after each flowering. There are four contents in pruning work: one is to thin the suckers on the rootstock; the second is to thin the withered branches, weak branches, diseased branches, and dense branches in the inner part; the third is to cut off the residual flowers and fruits; and the fourth is to obtain and maintain an ideal tree shape through pruning. Pruning is divided into winter pruning and pruning during the growing period. Winter pruning is mainly for shaping and rejuvenation, while pruning during the growing period is to ensure neat flowering, maintain a good tree shape, and promote healthy, strong, and fast growth of the tree-shaped roses.
Four: Transplanting and Water Retention of Tree-shaped Roses
Tree-shaped roses can be transplanted in all seasons under professional management and supervision, and they are not strict with climate and soil. The best soil is sandy loam. The best time for transplanting is between November and May of the following year. After transplanting, pruning is performed by first cutting dense branches, withered branches, and then old and weak branches, leaving 2-3 outward-growing tree buds. Due to the dehydration phenomenon caused by the timing of tree digging, water conservation treatment is required during the high temperature season. Water twice a day, morning and evening, after transplanting. To achieve a higher survival rate, spray the leaves and trunk of the rose at the same time. Do this every other day, five times in a row. No matter where the roses are planted, water is an important condition for plant growth, and there is no life without water. The principle of watering is not to water when the soil is dry, and to water thoroughly when watering, not watering "half-water". The first watering of newly planted roses must be thorough. The photosynthesis, respiration, and transpiration functions of tree-shaped roses require suitable water to grow normally. A lack of water in the ground-planted tree-shaped roses can cause the plants to wilt and even die. Conversely, excessive water can cause the plants to grow tall and thin, rot the roots, turn the leaves yellow, and drop the buds, not only reducing their ornamental value but also causing plant death in severe cases. Therefore, the amount, frequency, and timing of watering for ground-planted tree-shaped roses vary with the season and region. Roses belong to neutral flowers, and their requirement for soil moisture is higher than that of semi-drought-tolerant flowers, but they cannot grow in completely wet soil. The principle of watering is to keep the soil moist but not wet, i.e., maintaining about 60% soil moisture content. Keep "timely, moderate, moist but not wet". In summer and early autumn, the temperature is high, and the evaporation is large, so the amount and frequency of watering for roses should be correspondingly increased. After the weather cools in autumn, the growth of roses gradually weakens, and the amount of watering should also be gradually reduced. If it rains continuously in autumn, not only is there no need to water, but the soil should also be prevented from becoming too wet. In winter, the climate is cold, the evaporation is small, the plants enter the dormant period, and in order to prevent freezing, a frost protection watering should be done before the heavy frost. The best time to water roses is in the morning or after sunset. When the surface of the rose soil is white, it means the soil is dry, and it needs to be watered.
Five: Common Disease and Pest Control of Tree-shaped Roses
1. Aphids and Spider Mites: Pyrethroids are mainly used against aphids. Spider mites can be controlled with Acaricides or Fenpyroximate. Spray once a week for two consecutive weeks.
2. Scale Insects: Scale insects are a common disease of tree-shaped roses. Spray 40%氧化乐果乳油 1000-1200 times or 25%亚胺硫磷(酞胺硫磷) 500-800 times to kill. It is often found that using Guoguang Kaobi and Spinetor can be effective. Rotate the medication, once every 7 days, twice is enough.
3. Powdery Mildew: Powdery mildew often occurs in rainy or humid seasons when the temperature is between 18°C and 23°C. Under ventilation conditions, it can disappear within a few days at a high temperature of about 30°C. Spray carbendazim or triazolone during the outbreak period.
4. Black Spot Disease: Unlike powdery mildew, black spot disease occurs on the old leaves of roses, causing the leaves to turn yellow and fall off. After occurrence, spray lime sulfur or Bordeaux mixture, Methylthiazole, Dakoning, or Mancozeb for prevention, once every 7 to 10 days. Spraying is done from 5 pm to 7 pm.
5. Withered Branch Disease: The best way to prevent withered branch disease is to diligently remove residual flowers and leaves. When encountering withered branches in tree-shaped roses, first prune the blackened parts promptly. Note that when pruning, prune 3 centimeters more, for example, if the blackened part is 2 centimeters, prune 3 centimeters more, making the total pruning area 5 centimeters. If the growth branches turn black from the grafting point, prune the entire branch. All pruned blackened branches should be burned promptly to prevent re-infection. Use lime sulfur to clean the planting area in winter. Regularly use broad-spectrum fungicides; Mancozeb 75% mixed with carbendazim. Mancozeb 75% mixed with Methylbenzthiazole.喷洒百菌清 alone or alternately, spray once every 10 days.
6. Daily Preventive Combination: 1. (Mancozeb 75% mixed with carbendazim, Metalaxyl-M) spray once every ten days. 2. (Tridecyl alcohol, Mancozeb, Xishimei) 3. (Every month, apply once with醚代森联).
Six: Pruning and Fertilization of Tree-shaped Roses During Flowering
Tree-shaped roses have the characteristic of forming flower buds and flowering on new branches. When the flowers wither, the axillary buds begin to grow and form new branches, and flower buds form at the tip of the new branches. If left to grow, the branches will be weak, the flowers will be small and pale, the plant shape will be messy, affecting ventilation and light, and easily leading to disease and pest harm, making the disease occurrence serious.
Therefore, pruning must be done after each flowering to promote strong and vigorous growth and abundant flowering. The post-flowering pruning of rose trees should be done from May of the current year to after the end of summer. Each time, depending on the growth condition of the roses at different stages, determine the specific pruning method. The first post-flowering pruning should be done in mid to late May. At this time, it is necessary to cut off the residual flowers in time to avoid fruiting, so as to concentrate nutrition on sprouting new branches. For more branches, light pruning should be done, retaining 4-5 buds; for moderately developed branches, medium pruning should be done, retaining 2-3 buds, cutting off the upper part; and for weaker branches, strong pruning should be done, retaining 1-2 buds to promote the sprouting of strong branches. After pruning, apply fertilizer promptly (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer 15-15-15). The second post-flowering pruning of roses should be done from late June to early July. At this time, it is not necessary to cut off too many branches and leaves to avoid reducing the photosynthetic area. After pruning, continue to apply fertilizer (phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer). The third pruning should be done after August. At this time, medium pruning should be done, leaving 2-3 buds on each branch, pruning on the branches that bloomed in the last batch, removing overlapping branches, crossing branches, and dense branches, and the principle is to remove the weak and retain the strong to ensure good ventilation and light conditions. After pruning, apply fertilizer (nitrate phosphorus potassium fertilizer). The main fertilization of roses is to apply less frequently, including during the bud and flowering periods, and additional nutrition can be supplemented.
Seven: The Agreement on Winter Flowering of Tree-shaped Roses
The best time for pruning tree-shaped roses in winter is in February, which is the agreement for flowering. Winter pruning should be done during the dormancy period of roses. The dormancy period depends on the climate and geographical location, usually between December and the following February. Pruning at any time during this period will not affect flowering in the spring. The most suitable time is February. In February, new buds are germinating, and good and strong buds can be selected and retained. To explain why pruning in February is best, if pruning is done in December, the buds will germinate too early in the warm sunlight and then be injured by the cold in January. If pruning is done in March, the important nutrients accumulated in the roots will have been transported to the leaves, and pruning at this time will greatly damage the plant's vitality. Therefore, the best pruning time for roses is February. This time, the pruning is strong. Before pruning, first tidy up the unnecessary branches such as withered branches. Then, cut off two-thirds of the height of the entire plant. The intensity of pruning is influenced by the variety and the speed of plant growth. Generally, the 3 buds below the cut will become flowering branches. Next year, beautiful and colorful flowers will bloom!
Here is a brief diagram of winter pruning:
The detailed content of the planting and post-planting daily management techniques of tree-shaped roses is shared above, hoping to help you!