Variegated Tree
Today, the editor will introduce the topic of propagating variegated trees, including the propagation methods of variegated trees (also known as goldenrain trees). Next, let me introduce them to the netizens.
I. Seed Propagation
Seed Selection: Before sowing, it is necessary to select good seeds, as the quality of seeds directly affects the success of sowing.
1. It is best to use seeds collected in the current year. The longer the seeds are stored, the lower their germination rate.
2. Choose seeds that are full and free from defects or abnormalities.
3. Choose seeds that are free from diseases and pests.
Disinfection: Disinfection includes two concepts, one is to disinfect the seeds, and the other is to disinfect the sowing matrix. For home seed disinfection, seeds are usually soaked in hot water at about 60°C for 15 minutes, then soaked in warm water to promote germination for 12-24 hours. To disinfect the sowing matrix, the best method is to heat it in a pan until it is hot, which can kill any pests and diseases.
Germination Promotion: Soak the seeds in warm water (similar in temperature to washing water) for 12-24 hours until the seeds absorb water and swell. For seeds that germinate easily, this step can be omitted.
Sowing: For tiny seeds that are difficult to handle by hand or other tools, a toothpick can be moistened with water, and the seeds can be stuck one by one onto the surface of the matrix. Cover the matrix with a 1 cm thick layer and then place the sown pot in water with a depth of 1/2 to 2/3 of the pot's height to allow the water to slowly seep up (this method is known as "pot immersion"); for larger seeds that can be handled by hand or other tools, place the seeds directly into the matrix with a spacing of 3x5 cm. After sowing, cover the matrix with a thickness 2-3 times that of the seed. After sowing, use a sprayer or fine-mist watering can to moisten the sowing matrix. When the potting soil is slightly dry, water again, taking care not to apply too much force to avoid washing away the seeds.
Management after Sowing: After sowing in late autumn, early spring, or winter, if cold spells occur, the pots can be wrapped with plastic film to maintain warmth and humidity. After the seedlings emerge, promptly remove the film and expose the seedlings to sunlight between 9:30 am and 3:30 pm each day. Otherwise, the seedlings will become very weak. After most of the seeds have germinated, thinning should be done: remove unhealthy seedlings to ensure that the remaining ones have some space between them. When most seedlings have grown 3 or more leaves, they can be transplanted.
II. Cutting Propagation
Cutting propagation is commonly practiced from late spring to early autumn using the current year's branches for softwood cuttings, or from early spring using last year's branches for hardwood cuttings.
Cutting Matrix: This refers to the nutritious soil or materials such as river sand and peat used for cutting. It is difficult for home propagation to obtain an ideal cutting matrix for variegated trees, so it is recommended to use the pre-made and disinfected cutting matrix provided by this website. Medium-coarse river sand can also be used, but it should be rinsed several times with clean water before use. Sea sand and river sand from saline-alkaline areas should not be used as they are not suitable for the growth of flowering plants.
Selection of Cutting Branches: For softwood cuttings, select strong branches from the current year's growth when the plant is vigorous from late spring to early autumn. Cut the branches into segments 5-15 cm long, each with 3 or more leaf nodes. When taking cuttings, ensure that the top cut is about 1 cm above the top leaf node and the bottom cut is about 0.5 cm below the bottom leaf node, making sure both cuts are flat (the knife should be sharp). For hardwood cuttings, select strong branches from the previous year after the temperature rises in early spring. Each segment usually retains 3-4 nodes and is cut in the same way as softwood cuttings.
Management after Cutting:
Temperature: The optimal temperature for root formation is 20°C-30°C. Below 20°C, root formation is difficult and slow; above 30°C, the upper and lower cuts of the cuttings are easily infected by bacteria and rot, and the higher the temperature, the higher the proportion of rot. When the temperature is low after cutting, the main measure to keep warm is to wrap the pot or container used for cutting with plastic film; when the temperature is too high, the main measure to cool down is to shade the cuttings, removing 50-80% of the sunlight, and at the same time, spray the cuttings 3-5 times a day, more frequently on sunny or hot days, and less or not at all on cloudy or cool days.
Humidity: After cutting, it is necessary to maintain the relative humidity of the air at 75-85%. The basic requirement for root formation is to ensure that before the cuttings have roots, they can photosynthesize to produce root-forming substances. However, cuttings without roots cannot absorb enough water to maintain their water balance, so it is necessary to reduce water evaporation from the cuttings through spraying: under shaded conditions, spray the cuttings 3-5 times a day, more frequently on sunny or hot days, and less on cloudy or cool days. However, excessive spraying can lead to the cuttings being infected by bacteria and rotting, as many types of bacteria are present in water.
Light: Cutting propagation is inseparable from sunlight, as the cuttings still need to photosynthesize to produce nutrients and root-forming substances to meet their root formation needs. However, the stronger the light, the higher the temperature inside the cuttings, the more vigorous the transpiration, and the more water consumed, which is not conducive to the survival of the cuttings. Therefore, after cutting, it is necessary to
shade the sunlight by 50-80%, and gradually remove the shading net after the roots have grown: remove the shading net at 4:00 pm on sunny days and cover it again before 9:00 am the next day.
Layering Propagation: Select strong branches, and from about 15-30 cm below the top, strip a circle of bark about 1 cm wide and deep enough to just remove the epidermis. Cut a piece of film 10-20 cm long and 5-8 cm wide, place some moist garden soil on it, and wrap the ring-stripped part as if bandaging a wound, tying the ends of the film tightly and leaving the middle bulging. After about 4-6 weeks, roots will form. Cut the branch below the roots, and a new plant will be obtained. Potting or Transplanting: When the young plants are potted or large plants are repotted after several years of cultivation, first place a 2-3 cm thick layer of coarse-grained matrix at the bottom of the pot as a filter layer, then sprinkle a layer of fully decomposed organic fertilizer as a base fertilizer, about 1-2 cm thick, followed by a thin layer of matrix, about 1-2 cm thick, then place the plant to separate the fertilizer from the roots to avoid root burn.
The matrix for potting can be one of the following: garden soil: furnace slag = 3:1; or garden soil: medium-coarse river sand: sawdust (straw residue) = 4:1:2; or one of the following: paddy soil, pond mud, or decomposed leaf soil. After potting, water thoroughly and place in a shaded environment for one week. When transplanting young plants, dig a planting hole first, sprinkle a layer of organic fertilizer as a base fertilizer at the bottom of the planting hole (about 4-6 cm thick), then cover with soil and place the seedling, separating the fertilizer from the roots to avoid root burn. After placing the seedling, backfill the soil to cover the roots, press the soil with your feet, and water thoroughly.
Humidity Management: Prefers a humid climate, requiring a relative humidity of 70-80% in the growing environment. If the relative humidity is too low, the lower leaves will turn yellow and fall off, and the upper leaves will lose their luster.
Temperature Management: As it is native to tropical regions, it prefers a high temperature and humidity environment, and therefore has strict requirements for winter temperatures. Growth stops below 10°C, and it cannot survive frosts.
Light Management: Prefers a semi-shaded environment. It can be exposed to plenty of sunlight in autumn, winter, and spring, but should be shaded by more than 50% in summer. When kept indoors, it should be placed in a bright location, such as a living room, bedroom, or study. After being kept indoors for a period of time (about a month), it should be moved to a shaded (and insulated in winter) outdoor location for a period of time (about a month), alternating like this.
Fertilization and Water Management: For potted plants, in addition to adding organic fertilizer when potting, appropriate fertilization and water management should also be carried out during routine maintenance.
Spring, Summer, Autumn: These three seasons are its growing season. Fertilization and water management follow the sequence of "Flower Fertilizer" - "Water" - "Flower Fertilizer" - "Water" with an interval of about 1-4 days. The interval is shorter on sunny or hot days and longer on cloudy or cool days or not watered at all.
Winter: In the dormant period of winter, the main task is to control fertilization and watering. Fertilization and water management follow the sequence of "Flower Fertilizer" - "Water" - "Water" - "Flower Fertilizer" - "Water" - "Water" with an interval of about 3-7 days. The interval is shorter on sunny or hot days and longer on cloudy or cool days or not watered at all. For plants grown in the ground, fertilize 2-4 times in spring and summer according to the drought situation: dig a small ditch 30-100 cm away from the base of the stem (the further away from the stem, the larger the plant), 20 cm wide and deep. Spread 25-50 kg of organic fertilizer or 1-5 grams of granular compound fertilizer (chemical fertilizer) in the ditch, then water thoroughly. Before spring after winter, apply fertilizer again using the same method but without watering.
Pruning: In winter, when the plant enters a dormant or semi-dormant state, prune weak, diseased, dead, or dense branches. branches can also be tidied up for cutting propagation.
Potting: As long as it is properly maintained, it will grow quickly. When it reaches a certain size, consider repotting it into a larger pot to allow it to continue growing vigorously. The potting soil and component ratio can be one of the following: garden soil: furnace slag = 3:1; or garden soil: medium-coarse river sand: sawdust (straw residue) = 4:1:2; or one of the following: paddy soil, pond mud, or decomposed leaf soil.
Depotting: Place the plant to be repotted on the ground, tap the pot's sides with the palm of your hand to make the roots vibrate and separate from the pot wall, place the pot upside down in your left hand, hold the plant with your index and middle fingers, press the wrist and fingertips against the pot rim, tap the bottom of the pot with your right hand, and use your thumb to push the root soil downward from the bottom hole, allowing the plant to be removed. After removing it, gently tap the pot soil with both hands to remove any excess soil.
Preparing the Pot: Choose an appropriately sized pot, cover the bottom hole with two pieces of tile or thin foam to ensure that the potting soil is not washed out and that excess water can flow out easily. Place a layer of ceramic stones or broken red bricks on top of the tiles or foam as a filter layer, about 2-3 cm thick. Place a layer of organic fertilizer on top of the drainage layer, about 1-3 cm thick, followed by a thin layer of matrix, about 2 cm thick, to separate the roots from the fertilizer. Finally, place the plant and fill it with nutrient-rich soil, leaving about 2-3 cm from the pot opening.
The detailed introduction of the propagation methods of variegated trees (goldenrain trees) mentioned above, did you get it?