Can we save the hibiscus leaves when wilting?
As a common ornamental shrub in the courtyard, the sudden wilting of hibiscus leaves will always make flower friends worried. In fact, as long as the correct diagnosis method is mastered, 80% of wilted hibiscus can be restored to vitality. This article will take you to comprehensively understand the causes of hibiscus leaf wilting and systematic solutions through four key treatment steps. Diagnosis of the causes of hibiscus wilting leaves and testing of root vitality. Use a horticultural shovel to lightly dig the surface soil and observe the root system: Healthy root systems should be milky white and elastic. If the root systems are found to be black, rotted or dry and brittle, it indicates that the plant has entered a critical state. Assessment of stem status and observation of broken branches: The section of fresh branches is wet and green in color. If the section is dry and brown, it means that the water transport system has been destroyed. The four-step hibiscus treatment plan implements the "fingertip test method" for precise moisture control: insert your finger into the soil for 2 cm. If it is dry, water needs to be replenished immediately. It is recommended to use the dipping basin method to replenish water, and pour it until the basin soil is semi-dry after each time. Replenish water once in the morning and evening in summer, and replenish water once in 5-7 days in winter. Scientific fertilization strategy: During the wilting period, nitrogen fertilizer should be suspended and potassium dihydrogen phosphate (1:1000) should be sprayed on the leaves. It is recommended to use a mixture of decomposed sheep manure (200g/plant) and bone meal (50g/plant) for soil topdressing, once a month. Optimize the lighting environment and build a temporary sunshade net (shading rate 30%-50%) to maintain scattered light for 4-6 hours a day. Avoid direct strong light at noon. It is recommended to place it east-west to allow the plants to receive soft light in the morning and dusk. Comprehensive pest control found that aphids can be sprayed with 2000 times of 10% imidacloprid; red spiders can be sprayed with 3000 times of 43% biphenylhydrazate suspension; and carbendazim (1:800) can be sprayed once a week to prevent fungal diseases.
Through the above-mentioned systematic treatment measures, combined with daily observation and recording of leaf recovery, new buds can usually be seen germinating in 2-3 weeks. Special reminder: During treatment, it is better to keep the ambient temperature between 18-28℃ and control the air humidity between 60%-70%.