What should I do if the leaves at the bottom of the lily turn yellow?
As an elegant bulbous flower, lily often has yellowing bottom leaves during maintenance. This not only affects the ornamental value, but may also imply plant health problems. This paper will systematically analyze the causes of yellow leaves and provide targeted solutions from four dimensions: water management, fertilization skills, temperature control and soil maintenance. Water Management Trilogy Analysis of the Causes of Yellow Leaves Lily root system has a "water priority allocation mechanism." When water supply is insufficient, the plant will preferentially transport water to the top new tissues, causing the old leaves at the bottom to be dehydrated and yellowed first. Observing the yellowing order of leaves is an important basis for judging water shortage. Scientific watering plan Keep the soil moisture at 60%-70% in spring and autumn, replenish water every morning during the high temperature period in summer, and stop water during the dormant period in winter. The "dipping basin method" can ensure that deep roots absorb water, and the combination of ceramsite paving can effectively maintain moisture balance. Identification characteristics of fertilizer damage caused by precise fertilization strategy Yellow leaves caused by excessive fertilization are usually accompanied by phenomena such as scorched leaf tips and curled new leaves. The root system will appear transparent and easy to break after being damaged by fertilizer, and timely treatment measures need to be taken. The root restoration process adopts a four-step restoration method: removing the basin and cleaning → pruning and disinfecting the roots (soaking in carbendazim for 30 minutes) → replacing the substrate (peat: perlite =3:1) → slowing seedling maintenance. Suspension of fertilization within 2 weeks after restoration, and use 2000 times diluted liquid fertilizer after new roots germinate. The best growth temperature band for lily in the temperature-sensitive area is 15-25℃, and self-protection mechanisms will be activated when it exceeds 28℃. A suitable microenvironment can be built through the "three-degree cooling method": sunshade net cooling by 3℃, ground sprinkler by 2℃, and ventilation by 1℃. The humidity balance technique adopts the "532 Water Spray Rule"-spray at a distance of 50cm from the plant, lasting for 3 seconds each time, twice a day. It can not only increase the air humidity, but also avoid diseases caused by water on the leaves. The soil maintenance system hardening prevention plan has established a "three-three loosening system": the top soil is lightly loosened to a depth of 3 cm every 3 months, combined with the addition of 5% vermiculite to improve the structure. It is recommended to use a bamboo loosening rake to avoid metal tools damaging the bulbs. During the substrate renewal period, potted lilies should be replaced with new soil every year, and soil improvement should be carried out every 2 years for local cultivation. The best time for soil change is after pilling in autumn. The formula for new soil is recommended: 40% leus soil +30% river sand +20% coconut bran +10% bone meal.
Through systematic diagnosis and precise intervention, the yellow leaf problem at the bottom of lily can be effectively controlled. It is recommended to establish a maintenance log to record data such as watering and fertilization frequency, temperature changes, and dynamically adjust the maintenance plan based on the plant's response to keep the lily growing healthily.