When is it easy for grape cuttings to survive, and what are the timing and methods for grapevine cutting?

When is it easy to survive葡萄 cutting

Comprehensively analyzing when it is easy to survive葡萄 cutting and the experience of grapevine cutting time and methods in green plant maintenance, it will definitely bring you help. Let's learn about it together!

Want to plant some grapes, but don't know if grapes can be cut, and also don't know what methods are available for grape cutting. I want to know how to cut grapes for a higher survival rate. Today, let's get to know some related issues about grape cutting propagation.

In general, grape trees can be propagated by cutting. After cutting, the grape seedlings can bear fruit normally after 2-3 years of growth. In addition to grapes, other fruit trees like kiwi, cherry, pomegranate, fig, and blueberry can also be propagated by cutting. Cutting propagation is a very common asexual propagation method in the cultivation of flowering and seedling trees, which can be divided into green wood cutting (also known as softwood cutting, using the current year's new branches for cutting) and hard wood cutting (using branches collected in advance from the previous year for cutting).

Here are some introductions to the operation and management methods of grape cutting propagation:

One, Prepare the seedbed

The seedbed for cutting should be flat, with deep and fertile soil, sunny and windless, and convenient for irrigation and drainage. Use light sandy soil, and level and prepare the seedbed in advance by fertilizing. In dry climates, you can choose flat seedbed cutting, while in humid climates, you can choose high seedbed cutting or ridge cutting.

Two, Prepare the cutting branches

The branches used for cutting can be collected around July for green wood cutting, and in winter for hard wood cutting. Choose strong branches that are well-developed, with full buds, free from diseases and pests, about 0.5 cm in diameter, and well lignified; cut the collected branches into small sections 20-25 cm long, retaining 2-3 leaves and 2-3 robust full buds per section, then remove the leaves, lateral branches, and tendrils, leaving only the petioles. When cutting the branches, the top should be cut flat about 1 cm above the bud, and the bottom should be cut diagonally in the shape of a "horse ear" below the bud.

Green wood cutting branches should be used immediately after collection. Before cutting, they can be soaked in water for 1-2 hours to absorb enough water. For hard wood cutting branches collected in winter, since they will be used in the spring when temperatures warm up, they can be bundled and stored in a shaded, dry cellar or room, or buried in moist sand. The storage environment should be maintained at a temperature of 1-5 degrees Celsius and a humidity of around 80%.

Three, Cutting methods

Grape cutting is generally carried out from June to September for green wood cutting and from March to April in spring for hard wood cutting.

To improve root formation and survival rates, before cutting, you can dip the roots in 100 mg/L of naphthylacetic acid or use substances like indole butyric acid or rooting powder. Then, insert the branches into the soil of the seedbed at a density of 25 cm x 30 cm or 35 cm x 15 cm—insert the lower end of the branch diagonally into the soil, with 2/3 of the cutting branch buried and one bud eye exposed above the ground. After cutting, water immediately.

For ridge cutting, you can insert the branches diagonally at a density of 30 cm high, 15 cm wide, 55 cm apart, and 15 cm between plants, then water along the ridge. For branches collected in winter, cutting can be done when the soil temperature 15 cm below the ground is stable at 10-15 degrees Celsius or higher.

In addition, covering the ground with plastic film after hard wood cutting can well keep the temperature and humidity, resulting in a higher survival rate!

Three, Management after cutting

Within half a month after cutting grapes, it is important to shade and keep warm (maintaining a temperature of about 25 degrees Celsius and humidity of about 85%). From cutting to before sprouting, it is generally enough to keep the soil moist without excessive watering. Depending on the moisture of the seedbed, water can be applied once every 10 days. If the soil is dry and lacks water, it should be watered promptly to keep the cutting branches moist, ensuring quick root formation and sprouting. Under normal conditions, grape branches can root and sprout after about one month.

When is it easy to survive葡萄 cutting

When the cutting branches have grown young buds with 3-4 leaves, you can remove the shading and ventilate for exercise, then transplant them to the nursery or plant them directly. Additionally, based on the growth of the seedlings, it is appropriate to retain one strong bud and remove any excess buds, leaving one new branch per seedling and topping the lateral branches when they reach an appropriate length.

Moreover, during the seedling growth period, you can apply 2-3 times of fertilizer (mainly nitrogen fertilizer in the early stage, with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer as auxiliary, and mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in the later stage, with nitrogen fertilizer as auxiliary), while also strengthening irrigation, tillage, loosening of soil, weeding, and pest control. This can promote robust growth of the seedlings, making the branches thicker and mature faster.

The above is [Green Plant Enthusiast Website]'s comprehensive explanation of when it is easy to survive葡萄 cutting and the time and methods for grapevine cutting, hoping to solve your green plant problems.