Key Techniques for Grafting Camellia Flowers onto Camellia oleifera Trees
Article Abstract: This article introduces the key techniques for grafting camellia flowers onto camellia oleifera trees, as well as the timing and methods for grafting. Follow the editor to explore the specific content!
Grafting camellia flowers onto camellia oleifera can be done, but there is a risk of later incompatibility, which should be taken into consideration. One method is seedling rootstock grafting, where camellia oleifera seeds are sown in sand beds and after about two months of growth, when the seedlings reach 4cm to 5cm in height, they can be removed for grafting using the cleft grafting method. Select a good-quality, lignified branch of a camellia variety, cut a section with one bud and one leaf as the scion, trim the internode into a楔形 shape, remove some leaves, and wrap the scion in a damp towel for grafting use. Excavate the camellia oleifera seedlings, cut off 1cm to 1.5cm above the cotyledons and remove the tip of the root, keeping the total length between 6cm to 7cm. Then, make a longitudinal cut along the cotyledonary suture, insert the trimmed scion's楔形 end into the cleft of the rootstock, aligning at least one side of the cambium layer, and secure with paper tape or plastic film, or use a small piece of tin or aluminum toothpaste tube to hold the joint. Plant the grafted seedlings in the seedbed at a spacing of 3cmx8cm, cover with plastic film to keep warm, and usually after 10 to 15 days, they start to heal, and after 20 to 25 days, uncover the film at night to ventilate and expose to dew, then remove the binding material when the scion bud starts to grow. Another method is semi-mature branch grafting, which involves crown grafting on large camellia oleifera plants and can cultivate various large camellia plants within 1 to 2 years. For summer grafting, pruning should be done before the end of February, and for autumn grafting, pruning should be done in mid-to-late June. The optimal temperature for grafting is between 25°C to 30°C. In the Yangtze River Valley, the suitable period for grafting is from late May to early June, and from late August to early September. During this time, the bark is easy to peel, and the grafting joint heals quickly with a high survival rate.
For branches with a diameter of 1cm or more, pull-apart grafting is used. Make three cuts on the upper, left, and right sides of the grafting area on the rootstock branch, pull down the bark to the same length as the scion's cut surface, then place the trimmed scion on the inner side of the pulled bark, pull the bark up to cover the scion, and secure with plastic tape, leaving the bud tip exposed and covering with a plastic bag to increase humidity and promote healing. After one month, remove the bag, and when the scion grows a new shoot and gradually lignifies, the binding material can be completely removed. If the diameter of the rootstock is similar to that of the scion, the abdominal grafting method is recommended.
Cutting the rootstock is done in three stages. The first cut is made when the graft is tied to weaken the apical dominance of the rootstock. The second cut is made when the first new shoot is fully lignified, cutting off 1/3 of the upper part of the rootstock branch, leaving some leaves to facilitate photosynthesis and root absorption. The third cut is made when the second new shoot of the scion is fully lignified, making a 45-degree diagonal cut at the same height as the joint and cutting off the rootstock. This step-by-step cutting can provide shading and moisture retention for the scion. Any buds that sprout on the rootstock should be promptly and completely removed to prevent unnecessary loss of water and nutrients.
The above is a detailed introduction to the key techniques for grafting camellia flowers onto camellia oleifera trees and the timing and methods of grafting. Did you get it?