The method of grafting cactus onto grass ball
The editor brings you knowledge about the succulent plant grass ball, the method of grafting cactus onto grass ball. Next, the editor of this site will introduce it to everyone.
The method of grafting cactus onto grass ball is to use the grass ball's advantages such as fast growth, cold resistance, strong resistance, good affinity, and no worries about landing as the rootstock for cactus grafting. For the cactus that needs to be grafted, commonly known as scion, it is best to choose slow-growing, weak-reproducing, low emergence rate, and rare varieties for grafting. There is no need to graft varieties that grow fast and reproduce strongly. Of course, for those who enjoy hybridizing new varieties, using grafting techniques to speed up propagation and select excellent new varieties is also a good method.
The method and steps of grafting cactus onto grass ball
One, grafting time: The best time for grafting is generally from June to August, when both the rootstock and scion are in the peak growing period, making grafting the most successful.
Two, choosing grass ball: To speed up wound healing and the rapid growth of scion, choose a healthy grass ball that is vigorous and larger than 5 cm. It is best to use varieties with short spines as rootstock, which makes grafting convenient and does not prick the hands. If there are only grass balls with long spines available, it's fine; just remove the spines with tweezers, which doesn't take much time. The cultivation of grass balls is necessary, as they are rare in the market (C-S), so we must propagate them ourselves. Fortunately, grass balls grow very fast, and 2 cm young plants can basically grow to 5 cm after a year.
Three, treatment of rootstock:
1. First, pot the grass ball and let it settle for 2-3 weeks.
2. Use a sharp utility knife to cut off the upper half of the ball, creating a conical shape, leaving a little bit of the growth point uncut (as seen in Figure 3). Then let it dry for 10-20 minutes so that the dry wound is easier for later grafting. Don't mind the rust on the blade; it's fine as it's just the outer edge being cut.
Four, grafting steps:
Here, I am introducing the grafting steps for seedlings, which have the advantage of easy landing and rapid self-rooting in the later stage.
1. At this point, we need to choose a sharper and thinner blade as a precision tool. I use a razor blade, but a scalpel can also be used.
2. The grafting part of the rootstock must be flat. When cutting to the growth point with the blade, it should be done in one stroke, and do not saw back and forth (this will make the cross-section uneven and affect the success rate).
3. Cutting open the growth point of the rootstock is the most critical step in grafting. If the growth point is too large compared to the scion, it is useless, and if it's too small, it is not conducive to the full combination of rootstock and scion, affecting later growth. If the growth point is not cut open and the grafting is done, it is also considered a failure, as the grass ball's growth point will swell and continue its own growth, discarding the scion. If you are operating for the first time, do not rush during the process of cutting open the growth point; cut slowly 1mm at a time, gaining skill with practice, and soon you will be able to cut with ease.
4. The growth points of triangular,袖浦, and 鹿角柱 (cylindrical rootstocks) are almost the same on the flat-cut surface, while the growth point of the grass ball gradually increases from the top to the middle. When cutting open the growth point, it needs to match the size of the scion. That is, if the diameter of the scion is 5mm, the growth point of the rootstock must not be larger than 3-4mm.
Five, choosing the scion:
1. There is no need to choose the most vigorous seedlings for the scion. Vigorous seedlings are most suitable for the cultivation of seedlings and are a pity to use for grafting. I choose seedlings that have emerged 1-3 months after sowing.
2. Remove the seedlings and the material at the roots, and brush the ball with a brush a few times, then let the roots dry.
3. Place the seedling horizontally on the middle finger, choose the thickest part of the ball for the cut surface, push down斜推而下 with the blade in one motion. If you are afraid of cutting your finger (usually there will be no injury), you can stop the blade when cutting through the epidermis on the other side of the ball and then gently use your nail to separate the seedling. Place the upper part of the seedling's wound against the growth point of the rootstock and press down gently. If your fingers are skilled enough, you can operate by hand; if your fingers are as clumsy as mine, this process can be completed with a soft, small pair of tweezers, discarding the unused roots.
4. Note: After cutting open the growth point of the rootstock, quickly cut open the seedling and then align them immediately; do not let the rootstock surface dry out.
Six, post-grafting management:
1. After the most delicate grafting process is complete, place it in a ventilated environment for about 15 minutes, then apply a plastic bag to keep it moist after the wound surface is dry.
2. Since the healing of the grafting point requires a constant humidity environment, not providing a plastic bag in time in a dry environment can cause the joint to separate and fall off.
3. Use a plastic bag larger than the diameter of the grass ball to cover the upper half of the ball, leaving a small opening for ventilation. I use a layer of plastic film covered on top, pinched into the spines of the grass ball. You can practice this process by hand a few times to avoid knocking over the grafted seedling later, which is also very important.
4. Then place the grass ball in a well-ventilated area with 90% shade or diffused light for 3-4 days. After the wound ages and the grafting joint is firm, remove the plastic film and place it in an environment with 60% shade for maintenance (this is summer, and most cacti need shade for care). Generally, after 2 weeks of grafting, you can see that the scion begins to grow, which means the grafting is successful, and you can show off greatly!
Seven, post-grafting care of the rootstock:
You can manage the grass ball rootstock however you like, with plenty of water and fertilizer, all aiming to ensure the robust growth of the grass ball. Remove any small plants that sprout around it to ensure all the nutrients go to the scion above.
Note: If you need to graft small seedlings or side芽子 balls that are 1cm-3cm in size, you will need to tie them tightly with a soft and elastic string after grafting to ensure the rootstock and scion are closely combined. Remove the string after 4-5 days and care for them in an environment with 60% shade (this is summer, and most cacti need shade care).
Friend “Zongheng Sihai” reminds: When combining the rootstock and scion, gently rotate them to ensure the joint is fully adhered.
Eight, even if there are no flowers, you must still have one. Please enjoy the peony grafted for 1 year and the Lophophora williamsii grafted for 2 years.
The above () introduces the specific content of the method of grafting cactus onto grass ball (with图文 records) for everyone's reference and operation.