Rock牡丹 seeding
You may not be familiar with the topics related to the rock cactus, rock牡丹 seeding. Here are the specific introductions:
Many flower friends are everywhere looking for rock牡丹 seeding techniques, but in fact, it is not that difficult to seed rock牡丹. In addition to discussing some rock牡丹 seeding methods, this article will also focus on the maintenance experience of rock牡丹 seedlings. As the saying goes, germination is easy, but it is difficult to grow. I hope that flower friends can read carefully with patience.
First, let's talk about the seeding issue. Rock牡丹 seeding is actually very simple. Just scatter it randomly and keep it moist and warm, and the seedlings will sprout soon. But for the long-term management of the seedlings, I advise against random scattering!
1. Seeding needs a good seedbed - the matrix. First of all, it should be noted that牡丹 does not like things like humus, so you should respect it! My general configuration is: 1~3mm red jade soil + coarse sand or 1~3mm gravel (some stone powder is better) + medium-sized vermiculite (mainly for water retention) + a little rice husk ash + a little base fertilizer, the ratio is about 5:2:2:0.5:0.5. Some people like to use honeycomb coal ash, and I don't object. It's best to lay some large particles at the bottom when laying the matrix to facilitate ventilation and good drainage. A thickness of 6~7cm is fine, too thin or too thick is not good.
2. The matrix must be strictly disinfected at high temperature! My method is to use a microwave oven at high power for 5 minutes.
3. Seeding should have a certain spacing between plants and rows. I generally keep about 1cm between each seed. The benefits of this will be mentioned later. Place the seeds directly on the surface of the matrix and soak them thoroughly with water (do not flood with water), cover them, keep them warm, and that's it. Seeds will germinate whether they are exposed to light or not during the germination period, so light is not important. What's important is temperature (22~30℃) and moisture!
II. Seedling management, I divide the seedling stage into two phases, the first phase is from seedling emergence to two years, and the second phase is from two to four years.
1. The first phase: Key points: temperature, humidity, and control your hands.
Temperature, 35℃ during the day and 20℃ at night is ideal; humidity, 50~70RH. Of course, it's easy for me to say it, but it's hard for you to measure it! My approach (again, mine): Use a large plastic bag (a bit taller) to cover it, with an environmental temperature of over 20℃, on the windowsill or balcony with direct sunlight in the morning and afternoon, and water droplets forming inside the bag, ok, the temperature and humidity inside the bag are basically within that range. This is what is called closed cultivation. If the environmental temperature is already very high, then just put it in a place with scattered light.
Note that I didn't mention noon, because direct sunlight from 11 to 15 o'clock can mercilessly burn or steam your seedlings to death, be careful! Try to turn direct light into scattered light.
Watering: Keep the potting soil moist, use the immersion pot method, with water depth being half the depth of the soil, and remove it when the surface starts to get wet. Always use clean well water or tap water (left for 2 days) to effectively prevent bacteria and pests. I've seen some people use bottled water, and I don't object!
Control your hands: Absolutely do not move the seedlings easily within one year! It's best not to move during the first phase. Not all follow the law of "move and grow longer"! This is why there should be a certain spacing. If it is absolutely necessary to move after one year, do it in spring and summer, i.e., May to June. This period is suitable for any size of牡丹 to be repotted, so if you are buying, it's best to do it at this time, easy to live and recover! Do not hurt the main root during the transplanting process, do not trim the fibrous roots, let it dry for one day in a dry environment, and plant it back the way it was taken out. The seedlings have no energy, the roots are their everything! The matrix should be damp (not wet), and the ingredients refer to the seeding matrix. Of course, if you can avoid transplanting throughout the first phase, that's the best, as this loss should be minimal. Controlling your hands is crucial to whether your seedlings grow well, quickly, or how many die.
Light: As long as you can ensure the temperature, scattered light is enough for it to enjoy.
Ventilation: There's no need to ventilate deliberately. Taking off the plastic bag to admire it every 3 or 5 days is its ventilation process. Here, the importance of good disinfection is shown!
Fertilization: I believe it's not necessary.
2. The second phase: Key points: fertilizer and water, control your hands.
About two years later, in May or June, move the pot. After taking the seedlings out of the pot, trim the roots appropriately, remove the fibrous roots and unhealthy roots, and you can sprinkle some rooting powder. Of course, if you are a root-cutting maniac, that's another story, I won't discuss that here. Pay attention to check for pests, but the chance is relatively small because the first phase is mainly closed cultivation and well disinfected. Let the seedlings cool for about 3 days, depending on your environmental temperature and dryness. The matrix ratio refers to the seeding matrix, with slightly larger particles and more base fertilizer, nothing special otherwise.
Still use damp soil for potting, and master the spacing between seedlings yourself. After a week of scattered light, immerse the pot, no need for closed cultivation. After normal watering 3 or 4 times, you can apply fertilizer water.
Emphasize the fertilizer water. You can choose fertilizers based on your environment. Many friends keep their plants at home, so it's best to choose odorless, eco-friendly compound fertilizers or chemical fertilizers sold in the market or on (Taobao), with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium content, or slightly higher nitrogen content (nitrogen mainly promotes seedling growth). If you have a courtyard or a balcony, you can do whatever you want. No matter which fertilizer you use, apply it thinly and frequently, a little bit each time you water. I use both types of fertilizers, haha, alternating, otherwise they will get tired of it. Every year, I go to the countryside to get a large plastic bag of chicken manure, then put it in a small water tank and add water, after a summer of decomposition (the smell during this process will be very strong, I put the tank in a corner of the roof, the strong smell will drift into the sky, giving a special rural feeling, because I used to be a farmer and had more than 4 years of知青 experience), the liquid is used as a seasoning for each watering, and the sediment is used as base fertilizer. Chemical fertilizers are a 50-50 mix of monopotassium phosphate and urea in water. The matrix we mix has poor water retention, so we need to water about once a week.
Control your hands is still not to move the seedlings randomly, let them have a continuous period of growth!!!
Well, the main points are more or less said, let's talk about something else.
Overwintering issue: The above two phases are both seedling management, and seedlings do not have dormancy, so they still need a good environment (temperature) to ensure continuous growth and no dormancy in winter. Don't tell me about wild ones, because you are not nature! I live in Taiyuan, a major city in the north, with four distinct seasons, although there is heating in winter at home, it still cannot ensure a normal growing temperature, so I bought a pet heating pad on TB and made a sunroom with a cardboard box on the windowsill, haha, it's all set!
Summer problem: As long as you don't burn or dry them to death in the summer, it's OK.牡丹 has strong heat resistance, and with sufficient humidity, it can withstand high temperatures of 45℃.
Calcium issue in the matrix: In addition to the stones and stone powder mentioned above, there are many better things around us, such as eggshells, snail shells, shellfish, etc. However, these things must be salt-free, oil-free, and decomposed before use.
Pest and disease control:牡丹 is very susceptible to red spider damage, the heavier the infestation, the harder it is to eradicate, so check and spray regularly to prevent problems before they start!
The detailed content of rock牡丹 seeding (seedling maintenance experience) introduced above, hoping to bring you help!