How to sow slow-growing succulents?
Compared to the knowledge most people have about succulents, how to sow slow-growing succulents? Let's find out in the introduction by the editor.
Sowing cacti and succulents and raising them has always been my interest, and most of my collection comes from this. I always select 2-3 plants in the best condition and appearance to keep for myself. When these plants grow into mature specimens, they can provide a large number of high-quality seeds. This prompted me to experiment with sowing and cultivation methods. The consistent source of seeds allows me to compare different sowing and planting methods. Additionally, I have a good grasp of the source, freshness, and quality of the seeds.
The best sowing and cultivation method for slow-growing cacti was discovered by chance. Previous tests in the greenhouse with a homemade seedling box yielded similar but still some differences. So, I have been looking for a more controllable light and heat source. As a Yorker, heating can be solved by the heating box from the Yorkshire Electricity Company, and we happen to have a large cabinet with a hot water pipe. I fought hard with my wife and finally obtained a 30cm (12 inches) space on top of the cabinet to install a 183cm (6 feet) long, 36cm (14 inches) wide seedling box. The top of the seedling box is fitted with two 1.5-meter fluorescent lights, about 15cm (6 inches) from the soil surface.
At first, I used Grolux (British brand) tubes, but they were too expensive. I tried ordinary daylight tubes and achieved the same effect. Now, I use ordinary tubes as the light source. However, I still believe that tubes that best simulate the lighting conditions of the native environment will achieve better results. The daylight tubes are controlled by a timer to ensure 14 hours of light daily, with no additional heating equipment except for the hot water pipe. The temperature in the seedling box at night is maintained between 18.3 and 21.1 degrees Celsius (65 to 70°F), and during the day, due to the heat generated by the tubes, the temperature usually stays between 23.9 and 26.7 degrees Celsius (75 to 80°F), sometimes even higher. The temperature difference between day and night seems to be beneficial for the plants, simulating the native environment to some extent. High temperatures should be avoided at all costs, as I have encountered problems in previous cultivations. High temperatures often inhibit seed germination, damage the plants, especially the delicate root systems, and cause soil compaction. Low temperatures can lead to rotting, infection, or growth cessation, which can slow down plant growth and sometimes have permanent effects. These issues are fatal for slow-growing plants, and we must try our best to create an ideal environment for these plants to grow rapidly (relatively speaking), as they are only vulnerable during the seedling stage. Once these plants can grow continuously and rapidly, they will look better and bloom more than those that are not well cared for.
The planting mix uses John Innes No. 2 compost (40%), washed river sand (20%), fine gravel (20%), and perlite (20%), removing or crushing large pieces of planting material that are not conducive to tender root hair attachment. Since I sow many seeds, nearly half of the sowing equipment is trays, and sometimes I also use smaller pots for individual varieties. Pour the mixed soil into the trays, pots until level with the rim, and gently press the soil surface to ensure that it does not sink after watering. If more than one variety is sown in a tray, something needs to be placed to separate the different varieties. Then, place the tray in warm water to completely wet the soil and add a suitable fungicide to the water. I use Murphy's Copper fungicide. It should be noted that excessive use of fungicides can affect the germination rate of the seeds.
Then, sow the seeds. I usually sow seeds of different varieties in separate pots, which is not as labor-intensive as imagined and saves time and the impact and damage on the roots from subsequent transplanting. Sowing is usually carried out at the end of winter. I put the seeds in a small container, like a lid, and use a clock key as a sowing tool. Since the pot is still in the water, the soil surface always remains moist. I use the key to gently touch the soil surface to pick up a little water, then touch the seed. The seed will stick to the wet part of the key and then be placed on the soil surface. I cover some soil on top of the seed, except for very small seeds. Since the soil is wet, the entire operation is quick, and about 20 seeds can be sown in one minute with practice. The spacing between seeds depends on their growth rate, usually 3-4 seeds per 2.5cm (1 inch). The germination rate is generally close to 100% (at least 50%), and the space required for a single sowing is not large. The reason for sowing so early is partly because there is nothing much to do during that period, partly to give the seedlings three more months of growth time, and mainly because my method is not affected by the variable weather in the UK, with a completely controllable growing environment.
When deciding what container to use for sowing what seeds, we need to consider the plant's growth rate and their needs. I ignored this in my early experiments, sowing the seeds of Echinopsis and Trichocereus (which grow rapidly) together, with predictable results. It is recommended that very slow-growing seedlings stay in the original pot for at least half a year (or even longer) before transplanting. It is important to avoid rapid-growing plants "drowning" slow-growing ones or digging out large seedlings that could affect the slow-growing ones.
After sowing the seeds, remove the tray from the water, completely seal it with transparent plastic film, and support the film with something to prevent condensation from collapsing it and touching the soil surface. My method is to place a wire ring around the tray, cover the film on top, and press it under the tray. For smaller pots, you can use a plastic bag and seal it, using labels as supports. This ensures that moisture does not escape from the film/plastic bag, keeping the soil moist for a long time without watering. (In fact, when I am very busy, I completely forget about sowing seeds and only remember after a few weeks.)
This environment is particularly effective for high-end cacti, such as Echinopsis, Ariocarpus, Graptopetalum, Obregonia, Leuchtenbergia, Notocactus, Epiphyllum, and Lophophora. Of course, I also use the same environment to sow many other cacti seeds, including some that require more light, such as Echinocereus and Neoporteria. I usually sow these seeds together, and when the seedlings turn yellow due to obvious lack of light, I move them to a windowsill. Sometimes the germination rate of these seeds is not ideal, but once they are placed in natural light, the seeds start to germinate again. Unfortunately, I have not recorded the specific genera and species that require natural light for seed germination. From the end of February, some large or cold-climate varieties, such as Trichocereus, Cactaceae, Maihuenia, and Acanthocereus, have a higher germination rate when sown on a well-lit windowsill indoors. It is often difficult to succeed in sowing and growing succulents in a seedling box with artificial light, so they are generally managed on a windowsill. Whether sowing and growing anywhere, the soil ratio, sowing technique, and watering frequency are the same, and the film/plastic bag must also be sealed. It's just that some succulents need "special care."
Fast-growing cacti stay in the seedling box for 3-6 months depending on space availability, while slow-growing ones stay for at least 6 months or even a year. This does not reduce the plant's resistance and can make the plants look perfect, especially Echinopsis and Ariocarpus. Moss can sometimes be a problem. Once the seeds have mostly germinated and grown to a size where they will not be淹没 by small stones, I will scatter a layer of fine stones on the soil surface and press them down, usually before moss爆发s. For Echinopsis and Lophophora, this is almost impossible, so I use my small key to scrape off the moss, which is laborious but very effective. Next year, I will experiment with soil mixed with coconut fiber to see if it can inhibit moss growth.
This attempt is significant, as perfecting the cultivation methods of these high-end plants has successfully conserved native plants and met the needs of many enthusiasts. I hope this article provides some inspiration for those who want to try part or all of the succulent plant cultivation. Of course, I am not responsible for any disharmony in marriage caused by commandeering the cabinet. Welcome to share further opinions and ideas from all succulent plant enthusiasts.
Above is the complete introduction to how to sow slow-growing succulents. Have green plant enthusiasts understood it?