Cactus species knowledge on planting
Today's editor will introduce you to the knowledge of cacti species, Echeveria, in the genus Echeveria. The knowledge of planting Echeveria in the genus Echeveria, the following site editor will introduce to netizens.
I. Introduction
The essence of successfully planting Echeveria species is actually not much different from that of planting other succulents. Although contrary to common beliefs, this genus does have some special requirements for the planting environment, it is not difficult to make them grow and reproduce healthily in different environments away from their native habitats. In fact, this is just a matter of interaction between soil, planting, daily management, light, temperature, and ventilation conditions.
II. Soil and Planting
In the wild, all Echeveria species grow in calcareous soils. In most cases, the main component of calcareous materials is calcium carbonate. However, while a certain amount of A. kotschoubeyanus grows on limestone, a large number of this species grow in gypsum soils (mainly composed of calcium sulfate). Limestone fragments are usually mixed with hard sandy clay, a large amount of minerals, and low moisture content soil. In the native area, there is often a large number of this genus in areas with good water permeability and fragile porous limestone. Therefore, it can be inferred that soluble calcium and other minerals are essential nutrients for Echeveria species.
Calcium sulfate (gypsum) is a slightly soluble substance, and groundwater, rainwater, and dew can usually release calcium ions. In contrast, calcium carbonate, as an insoluble substance, can only be absorbed by plants in the form of soluble calcium bicarbonate by reacting with water and carbon dioxide in the air. It is important to note that hydrated lime or lime cannot be used for violent alkaline reactions as it will damage the plant roots and is strictly prohibited. It is recommended to use dolomitic limestone, which contains both calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate, providing soluble calcium and magnesium bicarbonates.
Echeveria species have difficulty growing in planting environments that use peat soil and similar substrates as long-term planting media, especially in the mature stage. Although they will show good growth signs in a short period, they will eventually lead to poor root formation, which is especially evident in A. trigonus, leading to yellowing and death of the triangular warts. The ideal medium for this plant should be a fertile soil containing coarse sand. The original author's planting medium is composed of 30% heavy clay, 50% coarse sand, and 20% limestone fragments about 4mm in size. This medium has good water permeability and can return to a dry state just right, without becoming airtight in a moist state. Of course, there is no strict requirement for the ratio of various components in this formula, and planters can adjust appropriately according to local climatic conditions—for example, in dry and hot areas, the proportion of clay can be increased, and the amount and size of coarse sand reduced to prevent rapid water loss in the medium. Some porous materials like pumice can be added to the medium as part of the coarse sand, and a certain amount of slow-release potassium fertilizer can also be beneficial for planting this genus.
III. Transplanting
In addition to low cost and light weight, another reason why plastic pots are more recommended than ceramic pots is that plastic pots are more conducive to the root development of this type of plant: the hairy roots of Echeveria species planted in plastic pots do not touch the pot walls, which is more conducive to their own root development, and plastic pots also provide a warmer environment for the roots.
When transplanting, simply remove the plant from the original pot, shake off the loose soil on the roots, fill the annular gaps around the bottom of the pot and the bulb with planting material, and finally compact the pot soil.
IV. Watering and Fertilizing
The frequency of watering depends on many factors, such as the type of medium, the size of the medium's pores, temperature, and ventilation conditions, and most importantly, whether the plant is in the growing season. For plants grown in the above medium, in the UK, they are usually watered once every two weeks from late March to mid-October (which is the growing season for Echeveria species), but this also needs to consider local climatic conditions and plant growth status. Echeveria species are seasonal plants and enter a semi-dormant state in midsummer, so they can be watered appropriately according to this habit. From early spring to early summer and late summer to before flowering, Echeveria species require the highest amount of water. If this period coincides with hot and dry weather, the plants will quickly dry out, so they need to be watered every few days. After flowering, the plants generally enter a period of winter dormancy from early November, so they should be kept completely dry during this period. In hot and dry climates, the plants will need more water, and their growing season, dormancy period, and flowering period will also be affected by their long growing season.
Although there is no accurate evidence, the quality of water does play an important role in plant growth. Generally, rainwater is more suitable than ordinary water because it does not contain the bleaching powder found in tap water. Many planters place a lime particle filter mat at the inlet of their rainwater storage device, which not only filters out insoluble substances and acidic gases (carbon dioxide, sulfur oxides, and nitrogen gases) from the rainwater but also supplement calcium to the water source in the form of soluble bicarbonates, sulfates, and nitrates. This water can be used on all succulents, including Echeveria species, with very good results.
It is best to supplement water by bottom watering, controlling the amount of water to be absorbed in about 30 minutes. There are two benefits to bottom watering: first, the "neck" of the plant will not be too wet, thus avoiding the risk of root rot; second, it keeps the plant's hair from tangling and maintains its beauty. The only drawback of bottom watering is that it can cause salt crystals to form on the soil surface, but this can be removed with a little misting or top watering.
Fertilization and pest and disease control are best done at the same time as watering—adding fertilizer and systemic insecticides to the water. The added fertilizer should be a soluble fertilizer rich in potassium carbonate or a mixture of phosphorus potassium carbonate and potassium carbonate. Pest and disease control can be carried out twice a year in the spring and late summer by adding systemic insecticides to the water. If there is a slight pest or disease problem during this period, it is best to use marathon and nicotine alcohol solutions for control.
V. Light, Temperature, and Ventilation
Healthy plants can only grow and propagate healthily with good light, temperature, and ventilation conditions when they have strong roots and are normally watered and fertilized.
The best light and heat sources for plant growth are sunlight, and if the plants can be placed along the east-west direction in a sunny area of the greenhouse, it will be especially beneficial for plant growth. Some planters often shade the glass in the greenhouse, which is unnecessary in the UK and Northern Europe, although this measure might be used in hot and sunny seasons. In the UK, plants may be sunburned, but this can be completely avoided as long as they are already accustomed to the local light intensity, have strong roots, are supplied with sufficient water, and the surrounding environment has good ventilation. During the winter dormancy period, the plants do not need high temperatures—if the potting soil is dry, temperatures above 4°C are sufficient. The most difficult to control is the period from the end of December to the first watering after the flowering period: the plant roots are not completely dry, so the temperature should be kept above 10°C.
In winter, it is best to use electric heaters to warm the greenhouse, while also ensuring good air circulation. It is important to avoid using fuel or gas heaters, as these heaters release carbon dioxide and water vapor, which are not needed by plants in a dormant state, and the water vapor from gas heaters can lead to root rot and fungal infections. It is worth mentioning that when using electric heaters, it is best to have a backup device in case of power outages, at which point fuel or gas heaters would have to be used.
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