What should I do if the green radish leaves freeze to death?
In cold winter, blackening and wilting of green radish leaves is a common problem. This leaf-viewing plant native to tropical rainforests will stop growing when the temperature drops below 10 ° C, and continued low temperatures will cause freezing of cell tissues. This article will systematically explain the first aid steps and scientific maintenance methods for frostbitten green radish to help you save your beloved green radish. 1. Trilogy of emergency response to frostbite of green radish 1. Accurately judge the degree of frostbite and find that the leaves show water-stained patches and the leaf margins are black and curled, the entire plant should be inspected immediately. Mild frostbite only damaged a few leaves, while severe frostbite results in transparent lesions on the main stem. It is recommended to use a magnifying glass to observe the changes in vein veins. Healthy veins should remain green. 2. Professional pruning techniques use alcohol-disinfected pruning shears and cut obliquely at 45 degrees along the base of the petiole. Keep about 1 cm of petiole stump to prevent infection, paying special attention to cutting off all yellowed or translucent leaves. If the main stem has signs of frostbite, it needs to be removed to 2 cm above the healthy tissue. 3. After the operation, the plants were moved to a semi-shaded environment at 18-22℃, and a humidifier was used to maintain 60% humidity. Avoid direct sunlight for the first three days, and gradually increase scattered light after new buds germinate. It is recommended to use transparent plastic bags to make miniature greenhouses and ventilate them for 2 hours a day. 2. Construction of a wintering protection system for green radish 1. The three-dimensional insulation plan adopts the "sandwich" protection method: the bottom of the basin is covered with a 2cm perlite insulation layer, the basin body is wrapped with aluminum foil insulation cotton, and the basin surface is covered with loose scales. A light-transmitting insulation cover can be added at night to maintain the root temperature above 15℃. 2. The scientific placement strategy is best at 1.5 meters away from the window, which can both accept scattered light and avoid cold radiation. The floor heating room needs to be raised by 30cm with a flower stand and placed with a water pan to increase the humidity. In the northern region, it is recommended to place it in the bathroom and use bath moisture to moisturize. 3. Key points for water and fertilizer management: Use warm water at 25℃ for irrigation in winter, and add seaweed essence once a month. Stop using nitrogen fertilizer and switch to potassium dihydrogen phosphate (diluted 1000 times) to enhance stress resistance. Keep the substrate in a moist state, and you can feel moist when you insert your fingers 2 cm deep. 3. Observe the healing of the incision on the 3rd day after the Resurrection Timeline treatment. New buds can germinate within 7-15 days, and return to ornamental form 30 days later. If no new leaves are seen in 60 days, try hydroponics cutting to save them. Remember the "three no principles": no fertilization, no pot change, and no movement.