How to grow grapes_The home cultivation method of grapes
The editor brings you the knowledge of fruits and vegetables grapes, how to grow grapes_The home cultivation method of grapes, the specific details are as follows:
There are many varieties of grape cultivation, and the famous grape varieties commonly found in China include "Longyan", "Heihan", "Tengwen", "Jufeng", "Milk", "Fushu", "Rose-scented", "Seedless White", "Chicken Heart", etc.
Grapes prefer sufficient sunlight, dry weather, are relatively cold-resistant, and require a well-ventilated growing environment. They are not strict about soil requirements, except for heavy clay and saline-alkali soil, they can adapt to sandy soil, sandy gravel soil, light clay, and loamy soil. However, deep soil layers, good drainage, loose and fertile soil with moderate humidity, slightly acidic to slightly alkaline sandy or gravelly loamy soil is the most suitable. They are drought-resistant and dislike waterlogging.
Home cultivation is mainly divided into two methods: courtyard ground planting and pot planting.
(1) Courtyard ground planting: First, choose a planting location with sufficient sunlight, good ventilation, and dry terrain according to the habits of grapes. Deeply turn the soil before planting, apply enough decomposed base fertilizer, then dig holes in the planting position and plant the grape seedlings, making sure the roots are spread out and not buried too deep, preferably planted on a raised mound of soil. Finally, slightly thin out the branches, compact the soil around the roots, water thoroughly to settle the roots, and tie the vines to the stakes or trellises.
In terms of maintenance, the following tasks should be emphasized:
① Watering and fertilizing. Grapes prefer dry conditions; during flowering and fruiting, it is advisable to water less or not at all. In dry northern regions during winter, the soil moisture should be maintained. Reasonable fertilization is key to the growth and fruiting of grapes. Generally, sufficient nitrogen and phosphorus base fertilizers should be applied in winter, phosphorus fertilizers should be applied once or twice before flowering, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied once or twice after fruiting.
② Pruning and shaping. Pruning often adopts different forms depending on the method of planting, such as trellis usually focuses on raising the main vines and one side branch to form a large tree crown, after the crown is formed, pruning and thinning are done to form more reasonable fruiting branches; while for fence and wall types, single plant cultivation can be used, leaving only one vertical main vine, then pruning to form layered short fruiting side branches, or pruning into larger plant spacing, training longer fruiting side branches that stretch parallel to the layers of the fence.
Pruning should be done during the dormant period each year, leaving an appropriate number of fruiting branches according to the reasonable density, then shortening only the lower 1-2 buds in the reserved position to allow them to grow into new reserved fruiting branches next year. Alternate pruning should be done every year to ensure a certain amount of fruiting branches are formed annually.
Growth period pruning mainly involves timely thinning of weak and redundant branches that affect ventilation and light, controlling the excessive growth of fruiting branches, but also avoiding excessive pruning that could lead to early flowering of reserved fruiting branches in the autumn of the current year, affecting normal flowering and fruiting the following year.
(2) Pot planting: Often used for cultivation on south-facing balconies, it can beautify the environment and provide shade in summer. Pottery pots with a diameter of more than 30 cm are commonly used, and a small amount of brick and tile fragments can be mixed into the cultivation soil. Plant one seedling per pot, add a handful of decomposed cake fertilizer to the cultivation soil near the bottom of the pot, mix slightly, add a thin layer of soil on top, then plant the seedling in the pot, and the maintenance management is basically similar to that of ground planting. Pot plants often use bamboo and wooden stakes to make single-column, triangular, or oblong-shaped trellises.
(3) Pest and disease control: The diseases and pests of grapes include black spot disease, downy mildew, clearwing moth, aphids, scale insects, golden flower beetles, and looper moths, but the first three are the most harmful.
Black spot disease: It affects the tender green parts, with initial symptoms being needle-like red-brown to black-brown spots with yellow halos. As it spreads, it becomes round to irregular shapes, 1-4 mm in the center gray white, edges dark brown, and dry spots crack. Lesions on the leaf veins cause curling and distortion. Infected fruit stalks cause poor development, withering, and falling off. Diseased green fruit develop bird-eye-like spots, and later harden and crack. Young shoots are also easily infected and can die in severe cases.
Incidence: The initial outbreak occurs from late April to early May, with June being the peak period. Low-lying terrain, weak tree vigor, poor removal of diseased branches in winter, improper fertilization (excessive nitrogen), and varieties with weak disease resistance can all exacerbate the disease. European varieties are mostly resistant. Control methods: ① Strengthen horticultural control, such as choosing disease-resistant varieties, removing diseased branches and clearing old tree bark in winter. ② The first spray should be with a 1:0.7:240 Bordeaux mixture, and others can be sprayed with 50% thiophanate-methyl 800-1000 times liquid, or 75% carbendazim 700 times liquid, or 70% mancozeb manganese 800-1000 times liquid, etc.
Grape downy mildew: It mainly affects leaves but can also affect other tender tissues. Leaf lesions are initially water-soaked, then turn yellow to brown, with polygonal spots that can merge into large spots. When wet, the lesions on the back of the leaves produce white to grayish-white downy mildew. Lesions dry out, leading to premature defoliation. Diseased young fruit rot and later become hard and fall prematurely.
Incidence: Overwintering oospores or mycelium spread by wind and rain in the following June, with September to October being the peak period. Excessive rain and low temperatures in autumn can lead to outbreaks. Do you know?
Control methods: ① Remove and burn the diseased bodies in autumn. ② Apply equal Bordeaux mixture or 50% metalaxyl 500 times liquid spray for control at the beginning of the disease, and spray for 2-3 times.
Grape clearwing moth (boring insect): The newly hatched larvae bore into tender stems, causing them to break easily and wither, resulting in a large number of fruit drop.
Incidence: Occurs once a year, with larvae overwintering in branches, emerging in June of the following year to mate, lay eggs, and hatch. The larvae bore into tender branches to start causing harm, causing the affected part to swell into a tumor-like shape, with brown feces堆积 near the borehole. They enter the branches to overwinter in September to October.
Control methods: ① Manual removal. ② Spray 1-2 cm pyrethroid insecticides 1500-2000 times liquid during the grape bud stage for good results.
Propagation methods: Grapes are mainly propagated by cutting, but can also be propagated by grafting and layering.
(1) Cutting: Choose one-year-old branches with full buds, cut them in winter and store them in sand, then cut them into cuttings with 2-3 buds in March for outdoor cutting or pot cutting. In June, you can also choose the current year's fruiting branches, cut into 2-3 section cuttings, remove the lower leaves, leave only the top leaf, and cut off 1/3-1/2 of the leaf tip, then insert them into coarse sand, frequently watering to keep the matrix moist.
(2) Grafting: Often used for improving poor-quality varieties in adult trees. Use the cut grafting method in early spring when the sap just starts to flow. If the sap flows too strongly after cutting the rootstock, the cut surface is often not easy to heal.
(3) Layering: Although it can achieve a 10 cm survival rate, it is more complicated than cutting and is often only used when the mother plants of good varieties are rare.
Cultivation and maintenance: The transplantation and planting of grapes is best done during the dormant period, usually from late autumn after defoliation to early spring before germination.
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